KP rivets. - Page 2

PsychoBaller · 02-10-2007, 03:34 AM

When my KP2 was at Palmer's; I had them remove the rivets, and drill out the holes through the wood a bit more. They secured the trigger guard again by using long-thin set screws, and nuts for the inside wells o the stock. Can remove and re-attach the guard whenever.

Mbober1 · 02-10-2007, 07:27 AM

I head this same problem with my KP.

You need to bay alumninium rivet cut it on half as on the pis., insetr in to the stock and clench. To prevent brake of the ends you can heat up the rivet.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/...m/KIF_3935.JPG

Mbober1 · 02-10-2007, 07:28 AM

Z50 · 02-10-2007, 11:49 AM

My KP was refinished before I got it; the person who did the work removed the rivets and replaced them afterwards but was unable to get them tight. I was able to get them tight by clamping a piece of metal in my bench vice that would allow the rivet head to sit on the metal then taping the split rivet from the inside with a hammer via the end of a short bar. Mine were easy enough to bend so I'd think that you could pry them out in one piece.

B · 02-10-2007, 07:11 PM

Use a heavy duty upholstery tack puller you may need to modify it with a 90 degree bend. Get it under the head then pull the rivet out with the puller. You may need to lock the puller in a vice or if you have a slide hammer thread it for it and use that.

c6quad · 02-10-2007, 07:55 PM

there isn't enough of a head to get under to pull out one of those rivets. the ears are so tuff on the rivets that i think the head will give before the ears bend. plus, you'll scratch up the trigger guard trying to get under the heads.

Chemical-X · 02-10-2007, 08:59 PM

Well I got em out.

One I was able to bend back to shape enough to pull out, the other one had the ears dug into the wood. I ended up trying to drill the center of it. I did get a good portion of the center drilled out, then wood started to come up so I stopped immediatly. I ended up grinding the head off and punching the rivet out from the bottom.

I have close to zero tool marks. What I do have can be easily sanded out. I hear linseed oil might make the dents raise back out though.

02-10-2007, 03:34 AM	#11 (permalink)
PsychoBaller p8ntd dawurld, an thensum Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NJ	When my KP2 was at Palmer's; I had them remove the rivets, and drill out the holes through the wood a bit more. They secured the trigger guard again by using long-thin set screws, and nuts for the inside wells o the stock. Can remove and re-attach the guard whenever. __________________ 13th Legionnaires Scenario Team DC Viking #1 - DC Viking #2 - Blazer Project - Phooncane brewing Destructive Customs

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02-10-2007, 07:27 AM	#12 (permalink)
Mbober1 Active Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Poland	I head this same problem with my KP. You need to bay alumninium rivet cut it on half as on the pis., insetr in to the stock and clench. To prevent brake of the ends you can heat up the rivet. http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/...m/KIF_3935.JPG

02-10-2007, 07:28 AM	#13 (permalink)
Mbober1 Active Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Poland

02-10-2007, 07:55 PM	#16 (permalink)
c6quad MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC	there isn't enough of a head to get under to pull out one of those rivets. the ears are so tuff on the rivets that i think the head will give before the ears bend. plus, you'll scratch up the trigger guard trying to get under the heads.

02-10-2007, 08:59 PM	#17 (permalink)
Chemical-X Post Whore Join Date: Apr 2006	Well I got em out. One I was able to bend back to shape enough to pull out, the other one had the ears dug into the wood. I ended up trying to drill the center of it. I did get a good portion of the center drilled out, then wood started to come up so I stopped immediatly. I ended up grinding the head off and punching the rivet out from the bottom. I have close to zero tool marks. What I do have can be easily sanded out. I hear linseed oil might make the dents raise back out though.