Paintball

[Brimstone]

it was prol cold out. the cold will throw a blazer off, untill the air in the tank matches the air outside.

[Wycke]

Originally Posted by Brimstone

it was prol cold out. the cold will throw a blazer off, untill the air in the tank matches the air outside.

That's why PPS recommends allowing your gun to acclimate to the temperature for at least a couple of hours before airing it up. I usually leave my gear in the garage or in my car the evening before I'm going to play, so it's well-adjusted when I get to the field.

Also, the exhausts for the switch are between the grip frame & body and also unde the ASA, so that's the air coming out of there. It's perfectly normal for there to be a little venting there - it's just exhaust gas. I've had to replace the switch o-rings several times on each of the Blazers I've had. OK, maybe I didn't have to change them, but doing it is just so much fun!

[Striker9]

Originally Posted by Wycke

That's why PPS recommends allowing your gun to acclimate to the temperature for at least a couple of hours before airing it up. I usually leave my gear in the garage or in my car the evening before I'm going to play, so it's well-adjusted when I get to the field.

Also, the exhausts for the switch are between the grip frame & body and also unde the ASA, so that's the air coming out of there. It's perfectly normal for there to be a little venting there - it's just exhaust gas. I've had to replace the switch o-rings several times on each of the Blazers I've had. OK, maybe I didn't have to change them, but doing it is just so much fun!

The problem was I did leave my gear out in the garage and in my car before the game. The air coming out was not normal. If I pulled the ram or trigger even a little bit, what seemed like the whole tank would start venting out the front. Could the O-rings have gone bad since I had it in the shop 4-5 months ago? I've played with it 5-6 times since then.

[Wycke]

Originally Posted by Striker9

The problem was I did leave my gear out in the garage and in my car before the game. The air coming out was not normal. If I pulled the ram or trigger even a little bit, what seemed like the whole tank would start venting out the front. Could the O-rings have gone bad since I had it in the shop 4-5 months ago? I've played with it 5-6 times since then.

Hrm...it all depends what they did to it in the shop. If it was in for a trigger frame install, for example, they likely wouldn't have checked the switch or ram o-rings. FWIW, I had the same problem with my Blazer last Winter and it ended up being the ram o-ring. In severe cold, it was shrinking enough to cause a major leak. I pulled it off the ram piston and took it to the hardware store to match it up - I don't recall the size I used, though. I think PPS sells a kit of all the soft seals for like $20 (?) or the ram o-ring itself for like $4 or something like that.

[mrwisker]

Originally Posted by Striker9

Thanks for the info. I'll have to look at it a bit more. What I'm really worried about is the exhaust that was coming from the front ASA. Nothing I did seemed to fix it and it was very random.

Air release from the ports behind the asa are normal (as I was told)
It's equilizing pressure from within.
When I put the new grip frame on mine, it leaked at several locations while firing. None of which seemed normal.
Timing out is a game of fractions of an inch. I set the bell crank as per the instructions (don't forget to nudge it that .020)
When I set the sear as per the instructions was losing velocity (you can hear and feel) and it was still blowing out behind asa pretty good.
I increase the sear to increase the delay (only about an eighth of a turn) and velocity and asa blow out seem to be curbed (or at least equalized)

Check to see if the ram is binding, if your hammer isn't coming back the way it's supposed to.
I'm relatively new to blazers myself, but so what I have done seems to have worked(for me at least). I'll know better once I get to send some paint down field

[Striker9]

Originally Posted by Wycke

Hrm...it all depends what they did to it in the shop. If it was in for a trigger frame install, for example, they likely wouldn't have checked the switch or ram o-rings. FWIW, I had the same problem with my Blazer last Winter and it ended up being the ram o-ring. In severe cold, it was shrinking enough to cause a major leak. I pulled it off the ram piston and took it to the hardware store to match it up - I don't recall the size I used, though. I think PPS sells a kit of all the soft seals for like $20 (?) or the ram o-ring itself for like $4 or something like that.

Hmm, it was in for a full checkup. When I had it apart I didn't notice anything wrong with the ram o-ring. The ram bumper o-ring did look a bit warped though.

Just a video that shows the bolt sticking: http://images.igloos.ca/v/Striker9/P...e+002.avi.html

[Jackson]

Originally Posted by Marmaduke

Send a PM to Jackson. He's the only person I know of who has succesfully timed a Blazer.

Hey, don't drag me into this! I got lucky. Never timed a cocker before either. The Blazer stopped recocking one day during play and spent a good 30 minutes messing with the sear height and 4 way stuff until it fired!

But when it went back to the creator it came back better than ever. In PPS we trust.

[sgt-spam]

Your video...

From what I saw, it only 'stuck' once. It looked to me like the bolt didn't come all the way back (and you were pulling the trigger harder than the other times to get it to come back), and when you started to release, it looked like it didn't release until the trigger was almost all the way forward.

Your vent noises, IMHO, were acceptable. Especially when pulling and releasing so slowly.

If I were you, I would re-time the gun making sure you add the 0.020" over travel. I'd also make sure your RAM moves fairly easily when there's no pressure in the gun.

[Striker9]

I didn't touch the bellcrank at all, only the sear height. Should I still adjust it?

Also, any ideas about the full venting problem I was having?
thanks

[sgt-spam]

You'll get the venting if the switch doesn't close.

If you didn't touch the bell crank, I guess you could just reset the sear height.

When you're releasing the trigger slowly, does the bolt come all the way forward before the trigger hits the up travel screw?