Paintball

[NoForts4Me]

I switched the frames (from Sheridan to 45 Blade) this weekend, and the timing was WAY off. It seems I'm not the only one (which makes me feel somewhat better).

Some quick related questions that may help mrwisker and myself (and to keep from making a new thread):

1. During the trigger pull, how far after the hammer releases and gun fires would you estimate the trigger should move to engage and move the ram back?
2. Venting out the front will always be present (I'm assuming this is from the 4-way)?
3. Depending on how I adjust the bell-crank, the trigger rod will hit the sear spring (was hitting on initial install and is only a millimeter from it now). Can this be trimmed or filed down safely? There is a lot of "slack."
4. Any hints on how to get a hex key into the sear adjusting screw would be appreciated. I can't with my current tools (it is easy on the Sheridan frame). Do I just need a really long hex key? How important is this step (only one I can't do).

One thing I noticed, mrwisker, is that very small movements of the bell crank can greatly effect the gun and the timing. It doesn't take much adjustment to change everything. Also, I had the binding problem, where the ram only moved partially, and just adjusted the ram bushing. My gun has an extremely sensitive ram bushing and will only work if set a certain way.

[sgt-spam]

Originally Posted by NoForts4Me

1. During the trigger pull, how far after the hammer releases and gun fires would you estimate the trigger should move to engage and move the ram back?
2. Venting out the front will always be present (I'm assuming this is from the 4-way)?
3. Depending on how I adjust the bell-crank, the trigger rod will hit the sear spring (was hitting on initial install and is only a millimeter from it now). Can this be trimmed or filed down safely? There is a lot of "slack."
4. Any hints on how to get a hex key into the sear adjusting screw would be appreciated. I can't with my current tools (it is easy on the Sheridan frame). Do I just need a really long hex key? How important is this step (only one I can't do).

One thing I noticed, mrwisker, is that very small movements of the bell crank can greatly effect the gun and the timing. It doesn't take much adjustment to change everything. Also, I had the binding problem, where the ram only moved partially, and just adjusted the ram bushing. My gun has an extremely sensitive ram bushing and will only work if set a certain way.

1. You're asking about delay. IIRC, when watching the top of the trigger and the forward travel adjusting screw, my trigger moves less than 1mm between hammer release and switch engagement. Your delay is controlled by sear height.

2. Venting is always present. When firing quickly it's not as noticeable. When firing slowly it's very noticeable.

3. On one of the new grip frames I bought, the trigger rod was a little long after adjusting the bell crank. I trimmed it (just a little) with a pair of diagonal cutters and haven't had any problems.

4. I believe the allen wrench is a 1/16. If you look down the hole, you can see the trigger rod. Just carefully wedge the wrench in past the trigger rod. Adjusting sear height is very important. It determines when the hammer is released and whether or not the hammer will be caught when you let go of the trigger. It also determines how much delay you have between hammer release and switch activation. To make sure your delay is OK, use the cyclic / non-cyclic test on the timing guide.

[NoForts4Me]

Originally Posted by sgt-spam

4. I believe the allen wrench is a 1/16. If you look down the hole, you can see the trigger rod. Just carefully wedge the wrench in past the trigger rod. Adjusting sear height is very important. It determines when the hammer is released and whether or not the hammer will be caught when you let go of the trigger. It also determines how much delay you have between hammer release and switch activation. To make sure your delay is OK, use the cyclic / non-cyclic test on the timing guide.

Yeah, I have a 1/16 wrench (actually several), but they just won't go in. It's almost like it needs to go in at more of an angle than I can get it. I'll have to try and find a longer one to see if I can get to it that way. I tried for an hour Saturday and never could engage it. I'm glad this is so important since it's the one step I can't do!

Thanks for the help!

[sgt-spam]

Set the safety and then use the allen wrench to gently push the trigger rod out of the way.

A flashlight might help you find the set screw. Also, one side is easier for me than the other. I insert the allen wrench on the ram side of the trigger rod, if that makes sense.


Edit: I've had some older frames that required a 0.050" allen key.

[mrwisker]

Well...I think I got it.
I set the bell crank and re-adjusted the sear.
While testing I noticed a drop of in velocity (feel and sound)
Another eighth of a turn on the sear adjust seemed to do the trick.
It's a game of fractions of an inch
I think I got it settled for now. I just need a chrono and a test range.
Thanks for the help