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Old 10-27-2012, 05:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Blazer barrel kit

I had a barrel kit that was made for an Angel milled down to fit my Blazer. My question is that does the inside of the barrel need to have a bevel machined into it, so the bolt can travel all the way forward? Or should the bolt not make it into the barrel? If I didnt explain it very well, let me know and I can explain it further .


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Old 10-27-2012, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The bolt does enter the barrel.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmmm ok, something I guess I need to look into.


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Old 11-01-2012, 12:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Take your bolt out and see if it fits fine without beveling. I would think it would depend on the size of the back. My bolt was turned down/sanded down by a previous owner so the bolt itself will fit into my .678 eigenbarrel. Once the bolt is narrower all you have to do is get an oring or two that fit the various bore sizes you have.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gotcha, I was thinking about sanding/milling down the tip of the bolt. And maybe moving the oring slot back farther onto the bolt or maybe get rid of it? If I could just remove the front oring and then sand or mill down the tip enough to fit into my smallest bore would that work? Or should I have a slot milled farther back on the bolt to keep a forward oring in place?


Just thinking out loud, please correct me if I am wrong in any way .


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Old 11-01-2012, 04:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I don't think there is any reason to get rid of the oring slot and for efficiency sake especially when switching to a larger bore. Think about it, if it just fits inside a .678 bore and has no oring, what sort of gap is there gonna be when using a .677ish bolt face ina .685-89 bore without an oring to seal? Also the oring probably helps guide the bolt in and reduces bolt to barrel contact.

Just take the oring off, mill/sand the first 1/4inch of the bolt down or so depending on if you have a 1k or 2k blazer. use your original oring on barrels that it will fit okay. Get yourself a couple of slightly smaller orings for your smaller backs.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, I guess I should get my micrometer out before I start posting about removing the oring and such. I need to figure out how much metal actually has to be taken off for it to work properly.

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Old 11-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have an evil pipe kit that was milled down from an Angel. There is a size that you have to remove the O ring but I can't remember the size.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hows the strength of that kit milled down from angel threading? I've read a few reports of milled down kits being so thin its risky. Just wondering. I had spoken to deadly wind about making a kit for the blazer and they said they did it for show but the material was so thin it had little strength.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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^ that is the case if using an insert system. Eventually you will probably break it or the weight of the barrel over time will cause stress and break it. The only way I could think of using inserts would be if they were short enough that they didn't extend to the clamping point of the breach, where the stress point is. But I think the op is using solid backs, which should be fine. I have an ion threaded .678 eigenbarrel milled down to fit my 1k blazer. Still plenty of meat on it. Total cost about $65.
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