Paintball

[Bib]

One of my Typhoons has a broken bell crank / rocker arm so I pulled the one out of one of my Strokers (that had a burst hose) to use as a replacement.

The operation was a success and I got the timing set and the bolt cycling well. However, the bolt is not catching on the sear so that the gun just cycles the bolt but doesn't cock and fire. The weird thing is that if I manually pull the bolt back it cocks and fires fine. It looks like the ram is pushing the bolt back far enough but for some reason it doesn't catch on the sear. I have played around with the sear height up and down and this adjustments certainly affects the manual cocking but nothing I do will make the ram cock the gun properly.

Does anyone have any ideas???

Thanks,
Mark

ps

This is likely just the first of a series of help requests over the next few weeks.

I have a bakers dozen of PPS guns and over 1/2 are down so I'm determined to try and get them back and working myself instead of sending to Craig & Co.

I did this 2 years ago and sent in 6 or 7 guns but a couple didn't work by the time they came back in shipping and anyway, I can't afford to keep doing this so I have to become independent. Though I love PPS guns the most, I also have another 30 some guns of different flavors and I have to maintain them too so the PPS guns have typically just gone to the deadzone until I send them back.

Dead - 3 blazers, 1 Typhoon, 1 Stroker, 1 Hurricane, 1 Nasty
Live - 1 Blazer, 1 Strokers, 3 Hurricanes, 1 PPS loved KP pump

[Jordan]

If the LPR is turned up high enough, then it must be a timing issue. Is the bellcrank the same for a Typhoon as for a Stroker?

Jordan

[Bib]

All PPS is custom so I wouldn't declare that it is the same. However, I do have it cycling well and there is some play before the ram moves, enough that the gun should fire before that.

[Bib]

Oh yeah, another tidbit of info; If I manually cock the gun first and then turn on the air, it will fire the first shot just fine but not recock. So the problem is certainly the sear not catching when the ram pushes the bolt back even though it goes the same distance as I would pull it back manually to get it cocked.

I'm totally stumped as this seems impossible.

[Yellow5]

When you're manually cocking it, I assume you are not also holding down the trigger, so the sear is up, and it catches fine. When you hold down the trigger, the sear is lowered, so I'm guessing something to do with the timing of the ram vs. the sear: if the trigger motion cycles the 4-way earlier than it raises the sear far enough to engage, the bolt (and hammer) will already be on the way forward by the time you're done releasing the trigger and raising the sear.

I have struggled with a similar problem on a Stroker, but I'm afraid I don't have a good answer on how to fix it other than watching all the parts move while you cycle very slowly to get an idea of where the real issue is.

I do feel your pain...2 Nasty Typhoon LPR leaks, 1 Stroker timing issue, 1 Nasty SS body coupler leak...

[Bib]

Hmmmm, that is a very interesting theory. I will have to give some thought and analysis to see how this could be the problem and how to fix it. It makes sense though since the trigger being pulled is the variable I hadn't considered.

RE: Feeling the pain - Others have said many times that PPS guns like constant use and this is a problem when you have 45 guns. I support free paintball games in the back yard so I'm constantly lending guns to the newcomers. (up to 12 rookies per day and I count on another 6 back up guns to swap out when problem occur)

I don't lend the PPS guns often since I like to use them myself and they are also more sensitive to pilot error with short stroking. This means that some of them may sit for 6 months and then they are petulant when I do bring them to a game.

I figure I have to sell some of them OR become an expert at fixing them quickly. Since I only buy or trade guns, selling just seems wrong!

[incynr8]

if the RVA screw is cranked too far in this can happen.
if the mainspring guide rod is backwards or missing, also.
if the sear is simply worn or hammer is worn and not rotating (rare, and if so usually a hurc), it also can happen.
another thing to check is bolt swaps, there are different positions for sear lugs used over time.
lastly a really worn bolt lug (rare) decreases the throw clearance for how far back the hammer is pushed by the same margin it's flattened (only seen on really old girls)

[Bib]

Thanks Incynr8. I'll pull it apart and check for this stuff too when I'm pondering the timing/trigger theory.
Your help is much appreciated.