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Old 11-17-2012, 03:58 PM   #8681 (permalink)
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Ok well since there seems to be some interest in a ss piston I will look into making one. So what I am thinking is copy the thickest piston design and modefy it to be tighter on the oring so there isn't as much room. I only have a v1 piston so what piston should I be looking to copy?
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:47 PM   #8682 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Morhaughn View Post
Ok well since there seems to be some interest in a ss piston I will look into making one. So what I am thinking is copy the thickest piston design and modefy it to be tighter on the oring so there isn't as much room. I only have a v1 piston so what piston should I be looking to copy?
I think the The steel one in my picture would work best.. Is it the same as your V1?
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:02 PM   #8683 (permalink)
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I couldn't tell you since I havrnt taken it apart in a while. If yours is heavy its steal if its the same as the rest its oil hardened aluminum
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #8684 (permalink)
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:29 PM   #8685 (permalink)
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how about I try to fix the issue with SS then I can see about doing it with softer metals? because if it still snaps/bends SS there is no hope for an easy fix, and we will have to look into other causes then just weak metals.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:49 PM   #8686 (permalink)
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Thats the Ticket^^^^^^^
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #8687 (permalink)
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Although I can't really comment, it does look like it is not made out of aluminum likes the others.

Regarding the machining/design of all the pistons, you're absolutely right regarding the oring groves. Much to wide, and I can't see any reason for it to be designed that way. Narrower grove = less fragile, for sure.

Another thing I always wonder why they didn't do was anodizing the al pistons. With more suitable narrower oring groves and standard hard ano I would think the piston would function my better, namely keeping tolerances tighter.

That also goes for the internal reg piston. It, even more than the main piston, absolutely needs the tightest possible tolerances. Anodizing it could, if designed right (and having its housing's inside ano'd as well), provide a seriously positive boost in performance. And in so making it unnecessary for those of us who have had to using an inline reg or something to keep the internal reg from spiking.

And wouldn't ss work better than brass? I'm now saying I wouldn't be interested in trying a brass piston, or ti or whatever (but no cf or composite thank you), but would someone explain to me why they favor brass over ss or even ano'd or un-ano'd al? If it is just a case of favoring all things brass, I totally understand that. In some ways, especially when it comes to the bodies or exterior of guns, I'm the same way. But speaking in terms of pure performance, what makes a brass piston better than a ss (or al) version?

IMHO I preferred the piston that have threaded heads and set screw or use a screw to connect the head to the piston shaft. For some reason I was never a fan of the V1 design or whatever you were referring to in woouulf's post with all those pictures.

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Old 11-17-2012, 11:34 PM   #8688 (permalink)
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brass is Velcor's preferred alloy. But the Thumper already has a brass two way valve, so stainless is fine since it's his second preferred alloy.
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:10 AM   #8689 (permalink)
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It is a mild steel, used for a while until it too ran into bending/breaking problems.

Brian had told me he had intended to do the latest ones in brass, though I'm not sure that is the case anymore (mostly because of cost I believe, though I told him the brass would be much better than the aluminium he had been using, regardless of series)

EDIT: To add, I think that the brass would be stronger, while being easier to machine than SS. I could see where anodizing the current designs would help tolerances, albeit the fact that the anodizer they use tends to have anno that's on the thin side (just look at all the dust black Gen1's, heck my feed tube got scratched just from being put on my desk.)

And to throw my hat into the ring, I do like the current version of the piston, I still use the "thinner" one as of right now with no issues. Taking the "set it and forget it" approach has worked out for me so far
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:14 AM   #8690 (permalink)
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Proper oring grooves is kinda wide, as per some oring standards. What should help a lot here is bigger radius in the bottom corners of the grooves. Sharp corners is a fail point in the making, regardless of the material. Just saying, if a rounded groove tool was used instead of a squared groove tool, I bet there would be less breaks at oring grooves.
Then again, my Thumper has a steel main piston, and breech/barrel breaks paint, but works, until now.
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