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Old 11-22-2012, 11:59 AM   #8701 (permalink)
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No don't use that number.... I will get you my number a little later. That was just one I pulled off the net to use for the picture.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:37 PM   #8702 (permalink)
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For a while I though about building a reg tests, but after hearing what the threads weren't the standard 1/8npt it never happened. If you can wait I'll check on Saturday if that grub screw is for the input or output of the internal reg...

In any case it is worth shooting brian an email (I've always had better luck calling, but you might as well try both). In some cases, especially when folks lived in other parts of the world than the US I'd heard of him shipping pistons out to them. I've also heard of him shipping the older style pistons out to folks here too. But with the newer ones who knows what his stock is. Still no harm in getting in touch. I don't see why he wouldn't ship you a "newer" "older" version of the piston assuming he's got some in stock.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:05 PM   #8703 (permalink)
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Hey! Number 15, I didn't have that on the owners list, mind if I add it/you?
I actually have #94 and go ahead and add it. I have another one coming in next week as well. I will give you the number after it get here.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:02 PM   #8704 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by toymachine View Post
For a while I though about building a reg tests, but after hearing what the threads weren't the standard 1/8npt it never happened. If you can wait I'll check on Saturday if that grub screw is for the input or output of the internal reg...
The actual threads for that hole are 1/4 - 28.. Would be easy to make a little piece that went from that thread to 1/8 npt for a gauge or even to a asa. I might work on that this afternoon.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:18 PM   #8705 (permalink)
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Very interesting...
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:26 PM   #8706 (permalink)
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I was told the rods were press fit in, but I can imagine they used some sort of adhesive to actually hold the rods in. He still recommended a trip back to the shop if you wanted new rods, at least the breech area.

As far as that screw, no idea AFAIK it's just past the reg piston itself, you should be able to see the reg spring if it's removed.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:45 PM   #8707 (permalink)
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I got a lot of work done on the Thumper today.
I got a pressure reg adapter made. I really did not have time to test it yet, but it does fit and will work as long as the port is the LP one I want to put it on. Friday I will check it out



I got to work on the new piston today as well. I did not have a stainless on hand all I had was steel and brass. I made a steel one today and will make a brass one on friday.

Here is the picture of both pistons. You will notice in the below picture that the new piston is in 3 pieces. I did that so if the stem did break again it would be easier to remake the stem than the whole piston. The "head" is made of aluminum and the o-ring groove is a tad smaller. I drilled and taped it so it would thread on to the shaft. The shaft is made of steel and threaded on both ends so I can put the stock piece on and the "head" piece on. Again the o-ring grooves were cut a tad bit smaller to help with rolling out. I had to locktight the "head" on so it would not move or back out. The new piston looks smaller than the old one in the pictures but it is not


I shot it about 200 or so times today and the only problem I had was the stock end piece would vibrate out. I was racking my head today on how to stop that. I think what I might try is to drill and tap the end and put a set screw in so it locks the piece from coming loose. Something like the autococker cocking rods are.
What do you guys think? Would that work? or would there be air leak threw it, or is there even air at that point?

Those rod are not threaded in? Hmmm, I would think they would. So i guess I am going to have to order a new breech. Brian is going to love getting an email from me.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:18 PM   #8708 (permalink)
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By stock end piece do you mean the cocking block/rear paddle thing? Assuming there is enough meat on it you can tap that for set screws all you want no problem... Gas never gets into this piece in any way shape or form.

Or are you referring to the rear end of the main piston? In that case a tap, assuming again there is enough meat, is fine, just use that loctite!

And yes, the cocking rods are press fit, no threads.

BTW, great work on the pistons so far!!!
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:26 PM   #8709 (permalink)
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The end piece on the piston itself? I always used teflon tape, Brian always recommended blue Loctite (or Permatex blue, which is what he actually used for assembly of the pistons)

And if you're referring to the piece I think you are, there shouldn't be an air leak. Heck the new ones have a hole drilled through the front of them with no issue, I can't imagine the rear one would either as long as it stays on.

And no they aren't, I would think they would be as well, the only thing I can think of is that they're pressed in after they cut the flat in the rod for the cocking plate, which would be hard to time with threaded rods. Though they could just cut them after they're mounted, and maybe have a little bit more consistency between markers
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:32 PM   #8710 (permalink)
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Sorry I have no idea what they are called so pictures are better than words;

I want to drill and tap the end of this for a set screw.



BTW is there a manual some where or a exploded view of the thumper. That might help me for somethings.
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