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Old 07-01-2013, 06:30 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Maybe use a different seal in the pierce pin? A better seal would require less pressure.. Then you wouldn't be bowing your valve?
Also, is the angle between the co2 and your pierce pin the same?
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:32 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Also, is the angle between the co2 and your pierce pin the same?
Yup, 20 degrees. It actually leaks more once it bows. I have had quite a few different ideas, I just need to decide what's best.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Update time. I made a small strip and welded it back in to the bottom tube where the valve body fits in order to prevent the bowing. It worked out well. The valve fits the body nice and snug and there is no bowing with a 12 gr. cranked in there. I got a little time to test yesterday too. I went through two 12ies. the first was way hot, shooting 290 even. I tried to get it to a suitable velocity and get a good test in. here are the results from my second test.
1 262
2 271
3 263
4 255
5 282
6 260
7 X
8 266
9 265
10 279
11 263
12 268
13 260
14 277
15 270
16 272
17 269
18 279
19 271
20 269
21 269
22 270
23 273
24 271
25 270
26 272
27 261
28 253
29 250
30 232
Ended test.
It's a fine line between having good usable velocity and keeping the spike shots from being too hot. Even with most shots being 260-270 shot 5 was hot. I wish I could figure out how to lessen those spike shots. I also think now that it's running better, it's sprung like s#!t. I have broken every "rule" to efficiency. heavy hammer, light valve spring, heavy hammer spring. Large valve body, big bore, ect...
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