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Old 08-13-2013, 08:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The real hurdle is the air path through the grip which I don't really want to close as I can move the plug to the vertical Asa and move a tank to the back should the want arise.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I put a Palmer's 13" single spiral ported barrel on mine with widgets to combat roll-out and I've been really happy with how it performs. HPA can work, but yeah you'll want to be running the right pressure.

I modded my powertube cap by Dremmeling the edges down to a smaller diameter so I could get a Lapco Grey Ghost powertube spring to seat on it, this bumped my FPS up to about 280-290 using a stock Ninja reg tank.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I fixed up a couple dozen of these a few years ago for as rental guns a few years back.
Nail polish detents work well for stopping rollouts, though when you paint them on be sure and start them about a quarter of an inch into the back of the barrel- if you paint them right to the rear edge the bolt's O-ring will either get stuck or rub them out and make a mess.
If you have trouble finding a feedneck adapter for modern hoppers, a stock feedneck from an Impulse or Ion works rather well.
Some, but not all of the SL-68 IIs I worked on had trouble reaching 280fps on HPA. For these guns, it helped to shim the mainspring. I made some different-sized shims from an 11/32" brass tube I bought from Ace Hardware.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What did you use to cut the brass tubing?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The cleanest way would be a tubing cutter. But you could do it with a hacksaw or a dremel too.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What did you use to cut the brass tubing?
I don't remember.
Think it was the dremel.
It was a couple years ago, and judging from my picture it might have been my teeth.
Those look like hell.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:55 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I made a few shim for main spring as well have yet to test em. I used ss rid turned din and drilled out. Your way is much easier. Wonder how the brass will hold up.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:03 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I made a few shim for main spring as well have yet to test em. I used ss rid turned din and drilled out. Your way is much easier. Wonder how the brass will hold up.
Well, I should hope. The shims have to be a very specific diameter and thickness in order to fit between the SL68's hammer and bolt where the spring gets compressed.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:06 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Well, I should hope. The shims have to be a very specific diameter and thickness in order to fit between the SL68's hammer and bolt where the spring gets compressed.
I managed to find some o-rings that fit in there nicely that boosted the velocity a bit. I also took a small file to the porting in the power tube to allow a bit more air flow when it is open. I still max out around 265 FPS. Going to try the higher output reg next to see if we cant get it up to 280-290 range.
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I managed to find some o-rings that fit in there nicely that boosted the velocity a bit. I also took a small file to the porting in the power tube to allow a bit more air flow when it is open. I still max out around 265 FPS. Going to try the higher output reg next to see if we cant get it up to 280-290 range.
no reason that shouldn't work...you either increase the volume, or increase the pressure, or some combination of both. if you can't increase the volume of gas used, the only thing left is a higher pressure output from the tank reg. should be easy enough with a ninja.
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