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Old 08-30-2013, 10:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Converting a Cocker to Stock class

Hello all I have an Orracle body that I would like to convert into a stock class marker.

What would be the most efficient set up for 12 gram changer and where should I get the changer? CCI?

Does anyone make a stock class feed tube for autocockers or would I have to make one myself?

Do you guys have any recommendations on pump kits? Should I go all the way and get a CCM? Or would other pump kits do good enough. I saw on paintballgateway that all of the pump parts for the empire sniper can be bought.. really considering that.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Converting a Cocker to pump is easy enough. I have a Hooptie pump kit that I can swap out once in a while with my front block. The pump kit was only $30 and works just fine. As for the feed, you'd need to make sure the tube is parallel to the body with no ramping towards the breech. That would require removal of your feed neck as well as implementing a way to mount it to the body. As for the 12g changer, CCI is a good choice. There are other options out there but you can't argue with the price and ease of finding replacement parts for it (just call Mike).
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakySnakeCocker View Post
Hello all I have an Orracle body that I would like to convert into a stock class marker.

What would be the most efficient set up for 12 gram changer and where should I get the changer? CCI?

Does anyone make a stock class feed tube for autocockers or would I have to make one myself?

Do you guys have any recommendations on pump kits? Should I go all the way and get a CCM? Or would other pump kits do good enough. I saw on paintballgateway that all of the pump parts for the empire sniper can be bought.. really considering that.
Depends on your definition of stock class.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Contact WALZ for a stick feed.

Also, keep in mind that Snipers aren't overly efficient on 12-grams.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Contact WALZ for a stick feed.

Also, keep in mind that Snipers aren't overly efficient on 12-grams.
And Phantoms are? I played with a guys phantom at a field once. I don't recall it being super efficient on 12 grams either. For stock class doesn't the maker have to have 12 gram Co2?
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's a couple previous threads on this subject.

Stock Class Sniper Build Questions

Question About Gun in One of Your Gravity League Vids
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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An unregulated Sniper might get 20 shots out of a casual setup. A tuned Sniper may push 30. A stock Phantom gets about 30. A tuned Phantom can get over 40. Obviously various setups have a slight impact on efficiency, and regulating Snipers changes the game entirely.

I've heard of regulated Snipers pushing 50, and I can indeed vouch at abnormal efficiency with a regulated Sniper, but I've never sat and fine-tuned a regged Sniper.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Depends on your definition of stock class.
This. For a basic stockish setup, a bucket changer and stick feed are easy enough to come by, and easily swap back and forth, but if you want to take a purist approach, then you need to have a straight barrel with no porting, a feed tube parallel to and in contact with the barrel, likely requiring some machining.

Read this: Stock Class Paintball - Past, Present, and Future

Then decide what kind of stock class you want to do.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So where do you guys recommend getting these parts for a Sniper? I'm having a pretty hard time finding a feed tube.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SneakySnakeCocker View Post
So where do you guys recommend getting these parts for a Sniper? I'm having a pretty hard time finding a feed tube.
Gauging interest in Brass Cram and Jam angled feeders(new Pic Added)

OR

Stock Pump Straight 10-shot Feed Tube

AND

CCI 12 Gram Quick Changer Assembly - Black

That will get you started with minimal investment of time and effort, but you may need to experiment further with springing and valves once you get going.
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