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Old 11-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I like that handle a lot as well, I think I will make my self one, If some one could take some measurements for me , wink wink nudge nudge .

A reproduction will suit me just fine

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Old 11-07-2013, 09:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You make a successful repro of that handle and you can sell two dozen on here in a week.

Slim, great little write-up and explanation.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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As mentioned, Phantom internals are what you want, but don't forget that you'll need to thread the bolt for the cocking knob.
Nope, no need. The hole already drilled and tapped for the nylon set screw to keep the tpc from moving around works perfectly with the original pump arm screw, or any screw at all with the same threading.

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Any gun that MAr carries is considered a pump regardless of operation, since that's what he'll use it for anyway.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You make a successful repro of that handle and you can sell two dozen on here in a week.

Slim, great little write-up and explanation.
Yeah, I'd take three. One of the better ones I've seen. I beleive that I've held this one also. Slim and Touch of Gray have some niiiiiiiiiice Nellies.......
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DunXWright View Post
The hole already drilled and tapped for the nylon set screw to keep the tpc from moving around works perfectly with the original pump arm screw, or any screw at all with the same threading.
Without giving it too much thought, I had always assumed that the hole for the nylon set screw was too small for the cocking knob. After verifying this claim (this is the internet after all), I can attest that DunXWright is damn right. (See what I did there?) The velocity lock down hole on the Phantom bolt is in fact the same threads as the cocking knob on the Nel-Spot. This means that all that is needed to swap Nelson internals with CCI is to replace the sear on the hammer.

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Slim and Touch of Gray have some niiiiiiiiiice Nellies.......
Thank you El Jeffe. Of course mine is ten-times nicer than Craig Os, but I appreciate the sentiment anyhow.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think the bind comes from only pulling on one side of the bolt and it turning slightly.

Ultimately it's a poor design and newer / superior parts should be used if you want to use the gun regularly.
Yeah, the single cocking knob does create an uneven back pull when cocking. That's why almost every Nelson-based clone that followed double-slotted their bodies for a dual pump arm set up. It's also why a lot of Nel-Spot owners (my team included) opted to have their bolts and bodies machined for a dual pump arm as well. It makes all the difference in smoothing out the pump stroke, and also helps in preventing binding.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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In line with everything above, my uni-spot kinked on the power tube and the hammer also drug on the body. I bought a used phantom bolt and made the existing hammer fit the TPC (needed some depth, iirc). Since it was being re-sprung and ported, I lightened the hammer further by reducing the edges a bit. The combination cleared up all of the drag on the body and most of the power tube.

But yeah, phantom internals (with the hammer) might have been simpler.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The binding was actually being caused by not using one of the set screws for the valve housing. The marker came with just one of the set screws, and the bottom set screw no longer exists because I slotted the body, allowing the hammer to slide out without having to remove the sear every time. After I installed the second set screw, the binding alomst completely disappeared.

Now, I have a springing question. I am using a very heavy (but not from a spring kit/colored) valve spring, because the valve wouldn;t seal with any of my cocker valve springs. I am using a red cocker main spring. I am using Redemption which isn;t rolling out the barrel, and my velocity is only at 200 fps. The internals are in decent shape and I don;t think the issue is hammer drag. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Also, do you guys mean this pump handle? this is my other gen1 007....

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Old 11-11-2013, 12:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The binding was actually being caused by not using one of the set screws for the valve housing.
I've never heard of that, but I can see how if the valve body was offset even slightly, it could cause binding. I haven't used the valve body set screws on my Nel-Spot in decades - the rear frame screw has secured everything on it's own.

Even though you seemed to have solved the binding issue, I'd still recommend swapping out your internals with CCI ones. It's only going to help smoothing out the action, as well as providing easy velocity adjustment

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Now, I have a springing question. I am using a very heavy (but not from a spring kit/colored) valve spring, because the valve wouldn;t seal with any of my cocker valve springs. I am using a red cocker main spring. I am using Redemption which isn;t rolling out the barrel, and my velocity is only at 200 fps. The internals are in decent shape and I don;t think the issue is hammer drag. Any advice would be appreciated.
Just because the paint isn't rolling out of the barrel doesn't mean you aren't getting massive amounts of "blow by" due to under-sized paint, which results in poor efficiency and erratic chrono readings. The bore on a vintage Nel-spot will be huge compared to the size of today's small paint.

As far as the springs go, I'd switch to Nelson-based springs. I've had mixed results using cocker spring kits in Nelson-based guns. I think most of it has to do with length. It seems if the length isn't exact, then the FPS shoots either way too high or way too low.

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Also, do you guys mean this pump handle? this is my other gen1 007....
I think they were talking about the pump on my Nel-Spot, but yours looks cool too. Aluminum?
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