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Old 11-06-2013, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Removing 007 kinking

Hey guys,

I have a 007 that is crazy hard to cock. It has gen 1 upper with gen 2 frame, valve housing and puncture pin.

The kinking is occurring in the very beginning of the pump stroke, between the bolt and the front of the power tube. I have done some reading, and this was mentioned as "the dangerous kind of kinking" because it can cause the power tube to snap.

What I can't find online, is how to make it stop. I have heard of anti-kink internals, how did these work?

Can I polish the tip of the power tube to a taper?
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Solution: Throw some phantom internals in there. You won't regret it
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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bent power tube ? main spring binding ?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is a common problem with Nellies.
Yes, a set of Phantom internals will eliminate this. You'll need to swap out the sears though, but it's way easy.

Dan at Bacci Paintball - Vintage Pump Marker Parts, Gear and Memorabilia should have some TASO or AGS anti-kink internals. Titus at Celanis Paintball can get you the Phantom internals.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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power tube does not appear bent, and I have tried multiple springs.

I should not that I have removed the pump handle because i'm looking to just use the bolt pin.

I see that the tip of the powertube is slightly thicker than the rest of the tube, for the last 1/4 inch or so. This appears to be the case on other stock power tubes I have seen pictures of, but most nelson based tubes I have seen are one diameter all the way down. Could this be the culprit?
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nope. Most likely too strong a main-spring. Try a lighter one, and it'll reduce the tendency to kink some, but it won't be a cure-all.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok, yeah, it does seem to get better with a lighter spring
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I should not(e) that I have removed the pump handle because i'm looking to just use the bolt pin.
I can assure you that the novelty of using just the 007 cocking knob without the pump in game play will wear off in short order.

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I see that the tip of the powertube is slightly thicker than the rest of the tube, for the last 1/4 inch or so. This appears to be the case on other stock power tubes I have seen pictures of, but most nelson based tubes I have seen are one diameter all the way down. Could this be the culprit?
The Shootist is correct on all counts - the power tube thickness should have nothing to do with the binding that's occurring unless it's damaged. Originally, the anti-kink feature for Nel-spots was achieved through an extended internal velocity adjuster inside a modified bolt that acts as a guide during valve tube travel.

Below, the top assembly shows an original Nelson bolt that was bored out and threaded for an internal velocity adjuster. The hammer is lightened and the edges were rounded (possibly an early CCI?). Everything is polished. I don't remember exactly where I got them, but would assume our "team machinist" did the work circa '87 or '88. Under the modified assembly are unmodified original Nel-Spot internals.

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Mike at CCI designed the true Nelson-based anti-kink bolt/hammer when he incorporated a small collar to the front of the hammer which guides into the back of the bolt upon cocking. This is in addition to the extended velocity adjuster (now known as the "TPC") in the Phantom bolt.

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As mentioned, Phantom internals are what you want, but don't forget that you'll need to thread the bolt for the cocking knob.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Sorry to break topic but
Slim, I want that pump handle!!!


carry on with the regularly scheduled thread.
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry to break topic but
Slim, I want that pump handle!!!


carry on with the regularly scheduled thread.
Heh... so does everyone else on the planet with a nellie. Don't think many were actually made. There's been what....like 1 or 2 for sale in the last few years?

On the nellie thing, I think wear has something to do with it as well. I think the bind comes from only pulling on one side of the bolt and it turning slightly. If the bolt, powertube and gun body have wear it can turn more. Really rusty ones I've polished back up tend to bind more. Oil definitely helps.

Ultimately it's a poor design and newer / superior parts should be used if you want to use the gun regularly.
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