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Old 01-27-2014, 02:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Having accuracy/efficiency problems. Help?

When I took my 2k2 sniper to the field today it was super inefficient and my paint was all over the place. It was shooting around +/- 22! When I turned in the ivg it didn't seem to do much with fps. I'd say the ivg was in 2-3 full turns maybe? My reg "was sweetspotted" (by my local shop).

I was thinking this is the best place to post this because I'm not sure if the closed bolt system plays a roll in this problem I'm having.

My paint/bore was matched so I know that wasn't the problem. (I have a check it bore kit)

I also noticed I'm having some air problem while playing hopefully someone could help me with this. And this could be the reason why it's so inefficient. When I'd shoot every once in a while it would leak air (like how snipers leak if not cocked before the air is turned on.) So after cocking it it would stop and it would perform normally. I'm not sure but I think it would normally do this while autotriggering which makes me think my reg is the problem.

FYI I have a ccm reg, ccm asa and internals are stock besides the half block hammer (I believe).

I think I covered everything.
Anyone have any idea what this could be??

Last edited by Snowking63; 01-27-2014 at 04:56 AM.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good ol' TF has a few videos about this. I believe the proper term is venting down the barrel. CCM Product Manuals / Video Series / Parts Kit 'how to'. (UPDATED!)
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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after turning in your IVG, you made the hammer spring over power the valve so it doesn't have time to shut after a shot. I would say the check it bore kit is more for rollouts and not barrel to ball fit. it is less than an inch long so if it fits the ball tight, how does the ball fit to the rest of the barrel. not much good to use .679 paint in a barrel that is .695 even if the first inch of the barrel is fitted to the ball. you can sweetspot your reg on your own. leave the IVG where it is and turn the reg down. start shooting over a chrono and see where your velocity gets near and a little above field speed. then you can back out the IVG to field speed. this will give you a little leeway in case you need to go up or down on the velocity adjustment.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I took it to my local shop because I don't have access to a chrono or a reg tester. They said my reg is at 300 so that's not the problem. They told me my valve spring is too light so I'll be putting some maddman springs in it. Would this do the trick?
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Was your gun having problems previous to this last trip to the field?

I've seen this a million times. Players have a gun that's working fine, and suddenly experience accuracy/efficiency problems. Their first reaction is to troubleshoot the gun, and end up scratching their heads when they can't isolate a problem. 90% of the time it's not the gun - it's the paint.

It doesn't matter if it was a "fresh shipment", or it looks "nice and round". There is simply no way of telling if the paint was sitting around in a warehouse for months with no climate control before it made it to a vendor, or if it was simply just a bad batch from the manufacturer. Try using several different other brands that have been purchased from different sources. If the gun has consistent issues with ALL of the paint you put through it, then start trouble shooting the gun. If not, then you've just found the problem. Obviously, you'll need access to a chrono to really see what's going on.

The leak you mention is odd, but I'd have to know more specifics of exactly where the leak is coming from, how much is leaking out and how consistent the leak is before addressing it.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowking63 View Post
I took it to my local shop because I don't have access to a chrono or a reg tester. They said my reg is at 300 so that's not the problem. They told me my valve spring is too light so I'll be putting some maddman springs in it. Would this do the trick?
your reg being at 300 doesn't make it ok?

The leak is as a result of NOT ENOUGH pressure behind the valve v. the hammer resting on it (IVG turned in too far/too stiff hammer spring possible) THis could be as simple as re-sweet spottin the marker.

You put in a stiffer valve spring, your hammer is going to have to hit harder to get the same velocity. 300 may be a benchmark for sniper based pumps, but your valve and spring combo will dictate the pressure the gun needs.

Open and clean reg. Reassemble. Pull hammer out and clean it too: a small piece of debris can jack up a hammer-strike. This is common in half-blocks because of the open hammer slot. Re-sweet spot it.

I would do the above before changing springs - ESPECIALLY if the springs had been working before.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I was having issues with a finicky sniper. Tried different valves, springs, etc. I threw in a CCM lower tube kit (valve, hammer, springs, etc) and BAM works perfect. Haven't had to touch it since.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I had the same kind of problems with a cocker. Turned out my valve jam nut had worked its way loose. Loosens the grub screw, tightened the jam nut and loc tited the grub screw in place. No problems since.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim View Post
Was your gun having problems previous to this last trip to the field?

Try using several different other brands that have been purchased from different sources.

The leak you mention is odd, but I'd have to know more specifics of exactly where the leak is coming from, how much is leaking out and how consistent the leak is before addressing it.
I took it out the weekend before last and it's probably important to say that was the first time using it since May. I remember getting it chrono'd and it was shooting around 240 (my field requires 275 or less) so I started turning in the IVG and i got it to about 260 +/-20 or so until the ref got impatient and marked my gun at that speed. That day I was playing with it I wasn't too worried about its performance because I had 2 other new guns to test out that day.

Last weekend I was shooting 2 different types of paint. They were both field paint though and one was a little more high end. Although, I did noticed the higher end paint was a little dimpled so who knows how long it's been sitting. The lower end paint was honestly breaking much better that day. I'd love to try out some different paint but TBH, I don't want to spend the money on new paint that I can't use at my field.

As for the air problem, it seems it could be the same problem that TF was talking about in his video that bassfisher mentioned (watch the video "CCM Tech Video - Barrel Leaks and 'Chuffing' - How to Fix It"). It was making the exact same sounds (leaking out of the barrel until cocked). BUT, every shot did not leak air. As I said, it seemed to leak more or less when I used auto trigger. But I could tell you it did also leak when not shooting very fast. So the leak was very inconsistent (in timing, not sound) so that has me confused.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mar View Post
your reg being at 300 doesn't make it ok?

The leak is as a result of NOT ENOUGH pressure behind the valve v. the hammer resting on it (IVG turned in too far/too stiff hammer spring possible) THis could be as simple as re-sweet spottin the marker.

You put in a stiffer valve spring, your hammer is going to have to hit harder to get the same velocity. 300 may be a benchmark for sniper based pumps, but your valve and spring combo will dictate the pressure the gun needs.

Open and clean reg. Reassemble. Pull hammer out and clean it too: a small piece of debris can jack up a hammer-strike. This is common in half-blocks because of the open hammer slot. Re-sweet spot it.

I would do the above before changing springs - ESPECIALLY if the springs had been working before.
I didn't think about having debris inside the marker for that could easily be the issue and I really hope it is. If it wasn't at the shop at the moment I would check that out, but I won't be picking it up until tomorrow. They are going to put the medium springs in so maybe they will find a problem there.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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if it CHUFFED more when you AT'ed, it likely has to do with your reg pressure - it is too low . Clean reg. If your reg is greased, you may want to degrease it and just use oil.
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