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Old 06-23-2014, 02:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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SL-68 2 sear won't release

So, I've been working on a gen 1 SL68 2 project on and off for a few years now, and I've run into a little snag.

First thing I did was polish the bolt, hammer, powertube, and sear, to get a better stroke. This is when I first encountered this problem. The pump handle had to be positioned perfectly to get the trigger to release the sear. I figured that I sanded too much off the sear so it wasn't fully engaging the trigger.

In case you aren't intimately aware of SL-68 2s, the bolt is a much larger diameter than the ball, so there's a channel for the ball waiting to be fed to fall into, so it doesn't get caught on the bolt as it goes forward. Well, my gun is modified for centerfeed, so I went and milled another channel directly on top of the bolt.

After I did that, the sear wouldn't release at all, unless you autotriggered hard. So, I ordered a new sear from Baccipaintball.com, and just replaced it, and now it won't even autotrigger. I have no idea what to do at this point. I kinda wonder if I bent the powertube on the bolt when I milled the channel, but it's hard to tell. Any ideas?
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Seems like it would be hard to sand too much off your original sear.
Are your internals not getting far enough forward for the hammer's sear to make enough contact with the trigger plate?
Maybe when you are auto triggering there's enough force for the hammer's sear to come far enough forward but when you slowly pump and take one shot the sear isn't making contact.
I guess to check this try if you can slowly and steadily auto trigger. Since you wrote that you have to auto trigger hard I would imagine this isn't the case.

Could also be that your spring has too much tension and is causing bad binding so the hammer wont release.
When you pump slowly and move the bolt into the firing position does it feel like the trigger is making contact with the sear? Does the trigger go as far back as it would with the internals pumped back?
When you cut the feed for center feed is there anything obstructing the path of the internals?
Does the barrel go too far in and not allow your internals to move far forward enough? Can you cycling the internals without the barrel on or without the oring on the bolt (might allow the bolt to move a little bit forward)?

Hope those questions bring up some possibilities that help resolve the problem,
-Dan
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
aka Maggy Moo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacci paintball View Post
Seems like it would be hard to sand too much off your original sear.
Are your internals not getting far enough forward for the hammer's sear to make enough contact with the trigger plate?
Maybe when you are auto triggering there's enough force for the hammer's sear to come far enough forward but when you slowly pump and take one shot the sear isn't making contact.
I guess to check this try if you can slowly and steadily auto trigger. Since you wrote that you have to auto trigger hard I would imagine this isn't the case.

Could also be that your spring has too much tension and is causing bad binding so the hammer wont release.
When you pump slowly and move the bolt into the firing position does it feel like the trigger is making contact with the sear?
When you don't hold the trigger down, yes. The trigger will move slightly as you pull the sear across it.

Does the trigger go as far back as it would with the internals pumped back?
Not quite, almost.
When you cut the feed for center feed is there anything obstructing the path of the internals?
I didn't do the centerfeed mod myself, but it was well done. No problems there.
Does the barrel go too far in and not allow your internals to move far forward enough? Can you cycling the internals without the barrel on or without the oring on the bolt (might allow the bolt to move a little bit forward)?
Tried, and no difference.

Hope those questions bring up some possibilities that help resolve the problem,
-Dan
It is probably worth mentioning that as I pull the trigger with the gun cocked, the bolt will visibly rotate downwards towards the barrel. I wonder if the sear spring is too strong or something. But I haven't changed any springs, so I don't know why that would have changed.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe not the sear spring but the main spring could be too strong. The main springs are a little smaller OD than nelson springs but if you have a spring that has less tension but will fit maybe try that?

Another possibility (although unlikely) is that the barrel could be too far forward which would mean when you pump forward it will auto trigger but when they are all the way forward sealed into the barrel the sear will be more forward and not correctly aligned with the trigger (still being just a little forward though it would likely trip).

But since it won't auto trigger when pump slowly I still think it's more likely the opposite, that the internals aren't far forward enough. When you tested did you try with the barrel pulled out about an 1/8th inch or did you try with the bolt oring removed?

That's all I can think of right now. Hopefully someone else can add some more suggestions.
-Dan
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I removed the bolt o-ring a long time ago, long before I had this issue, because the lip is bent pretty bad. Maybe I should try with it in?

I pulled the barrel out pretty far this time around, but I've tried it all over the place.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Back out your pump rod a couple turns and try again. This is a common problem with the SL series, it's either in too deep, or not deep enough.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have plenty of room either way. I can cock the gun without air, I have so much space.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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can you post a video? the only time i have come across anything like this was with a gen 2 sl68 2 .....i had swapped stock barrels with another one i had and had the same issue. came to find out the barrel was turned a different length from the step.
now you say your tried pulling the barrel out farther which would solve this issue, but I'm hoping you can connect the dots with something i said with something you've missed.

video would def help.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's a vid.

Please note that the entire time the barrel is off the gun I have the trigger held down. And to get it to shoot I have to snap it very hard, most of the time it won't work.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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booo video is private
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