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Old 09-01-2008, 01:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
MaD
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Did Kingman have it right??

...or very wrong?

I was cleaning up this hammer tonight and as the brass was coming back to life on the buffer I kept thinking... hmm.. brass internals. Man they polish up nice! I can see a downside and upside for using brass. Just wondering folk's opinions.



Oh.. and I wonder if they're compatible with anything else?
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i know i was able to use the Kingman hammer frame on the nelspot, and vice versa, but parts wise, i'm not sure, parts DID fit the bore, so maybe it'll fit a bore-drop body, tho i dont see the need for it, the hammer body;s pretty good from my exp.
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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For the most part, wrong IMO. The hammer would be heavy, and if you going heavy, I'd rather have a more durable stainless steal hammer than a soft brass hammer. I'd rather have a steal bolt and never worry about over tightening the pump arm screws. Plus you have to worry about tarnish.

If your going to have brass, have it out in the open where everyone can drool at it.
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Old 09-01-2008, 02:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Camo, you're right! A nelson frame will bolt up. Might even be able to do a 12g in the grip. Hmmm....I smell a possible mutant project in the future... Not that it's an improvement but a Trracer frame lines up as well.

Mespllingesnogud, I don't disagree on the bolt. Weight is one issue with both stainless and brass. The stability / smoothness might make up for it though... A lot of folks used aluminum bolts and I don't see any less maintenance in their future especially when the ano wears off. No matter what the material I've always been pretty anal about cleaning my pumps... especially single tubes as it only takes about 30 seconds to take them apart.

Another thing they did on this model was the brass lined barrel. Ah Kingman... so many "almost good" guns... lol
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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to do a 12g-in-grip, you'd want to chop off part of the body to be able to get the valve body to fit into the grip..i tried....lol...heres a pic of my old hammer before i sold it.
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Brass, not so good for high-wear parts ...
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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if you don't want the parts to oxidize,
wax them!
carnuba wax, or any automotive polish/wax that is not abrasive will do the job.

if no oxygen gets to the metal it can not oxidize.

i have parts that i made in grade 9 machine shop class back in 1980 that i polished with
"Liquid Luster" car wax, and they still shine today!

wax after buffing to the shine level your happy with.

do not wax in bore of a brass barrel!!!
you want the open brass there, no coatings!!
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drg View Post
Brass, not so good for high-wear parts ...
that's why bearings are made out of brass.
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just know that my Hammer with brass internals is one of the nicest shooting guns I have. It's has a brass lined barrel too!
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, there are many kinds of brass and bronze alloys, some of them (like aluminum bronze) are very strong and hard, but for the most part brass is generally soft (but still a very strong metal overall). the good part of that softness is its frictional and wear properties, the bad part is generally a lack of resistance to denting, peening etc. A brass hammer with a stainless face is a great idea. anywhere I can afford the weight of brass for a moving part where impacting wear is not an issue, I'll use it... brass is easy to machine, superior to other metals for moving parts (against steel and aluminum), and BLINGIN! 360 brass is the most commonly available that I use regularily, although for internals in general, I use 303 and 416 stainless more than anything (316 is great for highly durable parts but its tougher to machine, but shines beautifully when cut properly in particular on CNC).
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