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Old 09-23-2008, 11:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I recommend CCM's lower tube kit as a quick solution.
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Old 09-23-2008, 02:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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after many people pming me about how to spring their sniper's like mine, ive decided to start doing it for people.

heres one of my old ones
FWAGmedia118.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

its not as hard as it looks, but its kind of complicated to explain
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fwag69 View Post
after many people pming me about how to spring their sniper's like mine, ive decided to start doing it for people.

heres one of my old ones
FWAGmedia118.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

its not as hard as it looks, but its kind of complicated to explain
That IS pretty light.
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The problem with tuning solely for pump stroke is the same as tuning solely for low pressure.

Your efficiency goes in the toilet. You can go with a slightly heavier pump stroke/higher pressure with good efficiency too though

Last edited by Chefdave; 09-23-2008 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 04:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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not going to lie, i had pretty decent effeciency with my setup, a never ran out of air during the day, and i shot about 1k a day.

but then again i used a 70/45, so i guess im not as concerned as i should be.
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I'm with Dave on that efficiency is typically reduced when opting for a light pump stroke.
Mt S5 is tuned according to factory speck. Which they feel is as efficient as their marker will get. To lighten the pump stroke I had to look outside the marker.
You can polish the lower tube, and hammer, but I wouldn't mess with the rest. As CCM has done the best they can. And that's saying allot.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Well my old SS-25 had some really light valve and mainsprings. After I threw in a red valve spring and a green mainspring from a Madman kit, my efficiency more than doubled and there wasn't a noticeable difference to the previous silky smooth pumpstroke. With the stock setup, I barely got 80 shots from a 13/3000. With the new setup I got around 200 shots and about 10 of them were dry fires due to not cocking the pump all of the way back. I did polish up the pumprods a bit as well.
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Old 09-24-2008, 02:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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fwag, I wouldn't mind that pump stroke. Throw on a hitman mod and that would make for some effective shooting! Make a vid dude. I'm sure more people would like to benefit that's if you don't mind of course.
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Old 09-24-2008, 03:44 PM   #19 (permalink)
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There is a little more to getting a light/smooth pump stroke out of a sniper than just springs and system pressure.
  • Polished Hammer = less resistance [CCM Hammers are great out of the box]
  • Polished Heavy Hammer = less softer main spring for given system pressure
  • Clean up your lower tube = less force need to move hammer => lighter spring needed. I've seen lower tubes in terrible shape with burrs and boring marks [I've been known to hone and polish]
  • Bolt drag because of ill-fitting or fat o-rings. I like polished aluminum with delrin o-rings and little or no oil but a good fitting delrin [o-ringless] bolt will do fine.
  • Bolt drag do to poor finish = more friction and more force need in the pump stroke.
  • Lower Operating pressure helps but anything sub-350 psi is unnecessary and effects efficiency too much.

More to follow
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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fwag, I wouldn't mind that pump stroke. Throw on a hitman mod and that would make for some effective shooting! Make a vid dude. I'm sure more people would like to benefit that's if you don't mind of course.


that is a vid

but, i got rid of that gun a while ago, i regret it, but ive moved on.

i believe NYX3D here has it still ask him for one mabye
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