Paintball

[russc]

Originally Posted by Magoo

Hm. Female Stab as well? I always kinda figured it was intended to be used with CO2...

Edit: I can see how it might work better on anti-siphoned CO2. Hm. I wonder what my anti-liquid option ould be...

one reg should suffice, you just want to slow down the flow rate so it isn't drawing liquid through. Anything that impedes flow pre-reg should help.

Originally Posted by Robbie_Free

I am going to test regged high pressure,medium pressure and low pressure. I am also going to test light valve vs heavy valve spring and heavy hammer vs light hammer. Its going to take me a while to get the parts together I'll let you guys know how it works out.

Right on. Can't wait to see the results.

[Robbie_Free]

Okay,so i have a madman spring kit,some stock springs and yellow main spring. Does anyone know of any heavier/lighter main and valve springs? I have a shocktech rat III,palmers HP,old sniper valve,stock 2k+ valve,and a tech valve. Any other valves I should pick up to try and experiment with? Also what is the heaviest hammer you can get?

Also if anyone has a handheld chrono they would be willing to sell. That would be great .

[spymongoose]

I have studied this thread for the past two days, and I am trying to summarise the contents, as I am doing a build to try and replicate this effect with idealized components. Please correct me if I am wrong.

It would seem that body choice ('99, 2k+, mini) is irrelevent.
It would seem that any combination of spings, valves, hammers, bolts, and regs would produce these results, given a target peak sweetspot in the sub 400psi values and a good barrel/paint match.

So what are optimal parts? I read that an o-ringed bolt is a must to minimize "loss", a lighter hammer rather than heavier hammer to shorten dwell times, a valve meant for LP operation since the target output pressure is in the LP range, efficient 1 piece barrels, and some set of springs that were meant to eliminate burping... Did I miss anything? Regs with more features rather then less, like the palmers stab? What would make a good "shopping list" of off the shelf components for the high shot count sniper?

[splattttttt]

I don't think that you will get a straight answer, as this matter suffers from a variance between both efficiency, or consistency.
Shopping list is the easy part though. And you already know the answer.

[russc]

I think 2k+ body is a good idea. I got less shots on my 99 spec, and you can't run the pressure as low. Running down below 300 psi ensures every bit of co2 boils off, and the further you go down, the less fast firing and temperature matters since you get more certain boil-off in the valve.

tornado valve might be a good place to start, with the special yellow springs from AKA. I mean, really the tuning should be almost exactly the same as tuning a super efficient HPA gun.

PPS Stabilizer is good, and I wouldn't worry too much about reducing volume. If anything, reducing volume is a bad thing post-reg. Pre-reg, you want enough volume/distance so that you are ensuring the cartridge can't shoot liquid through your reg. That's why the bottomline setup worked well.

[spymongoose]

reading between the lines, the aka yellow springs would be softer than "normal spring ranges? My target valve for this build is an old stainless shocktech RAT valve with a very very open face. I had procured a shocktech super heavy hammer but now it looks like I am going digging in my bucket of old WGP parts for the lightest hammer I can find. I got a shocktech antichop bolt that I am using cause it has o-rings, an open face, and an angled inlet port. I am using a 99 body and an old castoff palmers stabilizer, just because that's what I have handy... Should I be looking for the lightest springs I have in my parts bucket?

[greystone]

I have an AKA Tornado valve, will drop it into my pump and see what kind of results I yield this week. Any recommendations on 12 grams or should the walmart special work just fine?