Paintball

[Thi3f]

i picked up a Radar MARK 2000 at a tag sale for 25$. it uses a back bottle ASA. i always envy the people who play with pumps rather than a marker that shoots 30+bps so i said what the hell. heres what it looks like whole.

and the internals



i broke paint in it and took it apart. i dont know what happend but its not workin now. i can pump it back and the 2 bolts some together and slide em foward, pull the trigger and it shoots. the problem is the bolt dosent go back far enaugh so a ball cant drop down into the chamber. i think my problem is part # 4. im not entirely sure where it goes. i take it out and the bolt can clear the chamber but the striker dosent hitch to the bolt, so no fireing. if someone can give me a users manual it would be much appreceited. or tell me in what order the parts go in. anything would help.

heres some more pics with the pump all the way back. you can kinda see the bolt there.





P.S. the ball dosent flow smoothly in the chamber also. i have to force it thru. its like it dosent fit.

this is the resopnse i got from pb nation.

Originally Posted by Dead_Body

If 4 is a metal bit then I think it may be in there as a spring spacer. But if that makes your spring too short the bolt will latch to the hammer. And when not aired up it should not be able to do that since it means you've coil bound the spring. That would also explain why it won't come back far enough for the bolt to clear the feedneck as well.

I've got 4 old Nelson based pumps here and none of them have that #4 collar. Could it be meant as a spacer for the pump plate to bolt screws?

So try assembling it again but this time without the #4 collar. I'll bet a previous owner thought he was being smart by adding it. Or he may have put it in there because the spring is getting weak. You may need a new one. Cocker hammer springs are supposed to work.

As an interim you could try to stretch this one a little but that's living on borrowed time usually. If you do try it measure and stretch a bit and measure again. Keep stretching further in SMALL steps with remeasuring after each try until it's about 1/4 inch longer. Don't go more than that or it'll really mess up the spring of the metal.

For highest velocity the bolt and hammer should be wiped down with a thin oil and most of that wiped back off. The thinnest of films will give you the best velocity. I found that out the hard way with one of mine.

That oldie looks like it's in great shape. You got a good'un there you did.

i dont have any c02 right now so ill test that theroy when i get some this weekend. anyinsight at all or a point in the right direction would be greatly appreceited.

thanks alot in advance!

[respiegel]

Thi3f, welcome to MCB
i've had alot of Nelson based markers and i've never seen a part like #4 inside the valve train, i agree with Dead_Body that its most likely a pump arm spacer. a Nelson based gun shouldn't cock if there isn't any pressure behind the cup seal. air it up without #4 in place and see if that works

[Thi3f]

damn. now i HAVE TO go out and get air. XD. ill try that hopefully tomorrow and get back to this to see how it worked. thanks alot. i really like this gun and hope it works.

[PJ]

Is #4 threaded on the outside, looks like a hex rod/Allen key fits inside it, and fits over the powertube? If so and the bolt looks like it's threaded inside, then the bolt is adjustable and this is the adjuster part that should thread inside it. Thread #4 into the bolt and give it a try. The Radar Mark 2000 I had a while back had an adjustable bolt (think it was standard in them). Otherwise it's like the others have said.

[Railgun]

Originally Posted by PJ

Is #4 threaded on the outside, looks like a hex rod/Allen key fits inside it, and fits over the powertube? If so and the bolt looks like it's threaded inside, then the bolt is adjustable and this is the adjuster part that should thread inside it. Thread #4 into the bolt and give it a try. The Radar Mark 2000 I had a while back had an adjustable bolt (think it was standard in them). Otherwise it's like the others have said.

So #4 would be an adjustable spring seat that fits into the bolt? That would make sense then. My Ranger has a longer threaded adjuster in a tube shape that works the same way. This one is just shorter.

But as the others have said it should NOT be able to cock when there's no pressure in the back valve chamber. If it does then you've got the adjuster (if that's what it is) way too far back in the bolt (#1 in the pic) and the spring is coil binding. If it coil binds you won't be able to move the bolt back far enough and that would explain why the feed isn't opening up all the way. You'll find that you want that adjuster (if that's what it really is) to be up near the front of the bolt to start with and only move it back based on chrono testing.

Thi3f, that answer from Dead_Body was me dressed in my alter ego costume to protect the innocent and avenge the guilty... or something like that.... Railgun was already taken on PBn. Good luck with getting the Radar going.

[Thi3f]

Originally Posted by Railgun

So #4 would be an adjustable spring seat that fits into the bolt? That would make sense then. My Ranger has a longer threaded adjuster in a tube shape that works the same way. This one is just shorter.

But as the others have said it should NOT be able to cock when there's no pressure in the back valve chamber. If it does then you've got the adjuster (if that's what it is) way too far back in the bolt (#1 in the pic) and the spring is coil binding. If it coil binds you won't be able to move the bolt back far enough and that would explain why the feed isn't opening up all the way. You'll find that you want that adjuster (if that's what it really is) to be up near the front of the bolt to start with and only move it back based on chrono testing.

Thi3f, that answer from Dead_Body was me dressed in my alter ego costume to protect the innocent and avenge the guilty... or something like that.... Railgun was already taken on PBn. Good luck with getting the Radar going.

wow. thats really cool. small world huh? so i tested it out today and everything works great. i think im gonna stick around these forums for a while. i like em. so thanks for all the information. ive been looking for some info at all on this gun since march.

but heres somemore questions

what thread is the barrel? its not spyder.
how do i hook up a bottomline ASA instead of backbottle
can i put a stock class tube feed on it?
what other nifty things can i do to it?

this is gonna be my tinker gun for a while.

so thanks again and in advance!

[PJ]

Originally Posted by Thi3f

wow. thats really cool. small world huh? so i tested it out today and everything works great. i think im gonna stick around these forums for a while. i like em. so thanks for all the information. ive been looking for some info at all on this gun since march.

but heres somemore questions

what thread is the barrel? its not spyder.
how do i hook up a bottomline ASA instead of backbottle
can i put a stock class tube feed on it?
what other nifty things can i do to it?

this is gonna be my tinker gun for a while.

so thanks again and in advance!

Great! You'll find that the Radar is a great shooter. I really regret selling mine.

A bottom line setup is simple, just have to locate a Lone Star bottom line adapter. You remove the hatch on the bottom of the grip by knocking out the pin that holds it in. Be careful you don't loose the pin as you'll need it! Insert the bottom line adapter with the little pin sticking out towards the front. Replace the hatch pin so it's below the adapter's pin. Get some 90* airline elbows, some braided steel line, Teflon tape, and ASA adapter to screw into the gun's ASA, and you're set.

Here's one on eBay, no fittings included:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Paintball-Gun-M1...QQcmdZViewItem

[Thi3f]

wow. really really quick responses. why are there more people on PbN? oh well. thanks alot man. i appreceite it.

[PJ]

No problem, and Merry Christmas!

[Thi3f]

you too! XD