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Old 11-21-2011, 09:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Earon most likely put one of his 20# valve springs in. He did that to my boxgun.
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:40 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I did some testing today that can be read here:
Duck Efficiency

Keep in mind my Duck is fixed barrel so I don't have the convenience of a freak kit for it.
Just gotta rub it in......some people

Rich my dux won't cock dry but it would be cool if it did I probably would never stop cocking it. If you hear a pop turn your TPC out just a bit or you are cocking it too hard.

CJ don't get me wrong what you and countless others have said all makes sense I just don't go to all that trouble because I don't have those issues. I actually tried weak front strong valve and it didn't work for me even with my 14in SI barrel. Although I got 47 shots off my Redux I really wholeheartedly only care about one good shot so I usually change after 10-20 shots.

I have however on occassion run my dux dry and been in a world of hurt changing because I didn't pay attention to the "pop" that became a "thud!" I mean hell, I'm saving so much on paint what's a few 12gms between friends. Heck if the weather would corporate and the wife would stop naggin I might be inclined to follow your advise and might possibly squeak out 50+ shots going weak on strong.


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Old 12-04-2011, 04:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quick bump. I was hoping to go out to the field today (sunday) but alas it's freakin rainy. So no chrono for me to test out.

So the the red madman is the hardest mainspring (right?) and the weakest valve spring is green. I noticed that the madman (autococker springs in general) are a tad bit longer than CCI/nelson springs. I can still dry fire without air.

Am I missing something somewhere that said I have to cut down the autococker springs to be the same size as nelson? I thought it was plug in and play. I realize that by being longer it means that they have more force pushing against the cupseal, which could offset how weak they are.

-Richard.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I thought it was plug in and play. I realize that by being longer it means that they have more force pushing against the cupseal, which could offset how weak they are.

-Richard.
Rich - you are correct. They are a bit long, but they will work; plug and play w/o being cut. You will notice that they cause a slight pressure on the valve body when you're putting everything back together, but as you said this will only simply increase the main spring pressure... although I have the least Nelson-master-foo skills of anyone that monitors this thread, so I'm sure someone else will have better info for you.

I'm interested to see what results you get, becuase I'm 90% certain the spring kit I have is a Madman (or other Autococker) spring kit. I've tried CCI springs and couldn't get it up!

Let us know how it goes man!
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't cut the extra length off the autococker springs, you want that. Just be sure the spring you use floats freely over the TPC and does not bind or hang up inside the hammer or bolt recesses. If the spring does hangup on anything it will be wasting energy trying to overcome the friction caused by dragging and not fully utilizing the springs potential.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:10 PM   #26 (permalink)
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If you marker is cocking dry, your valve spring is too long.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:50 AM   #27 (permalink)
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So since it's so damn cold (in texas..) i will have to hold off on tuning it. Freakin bummer. Winter is a depressing time for redux owners.

I did however find two combo's I *think* will work.

Red main, green valve. I found some real nelson green/red spring's so I don't have to cut anything down. Unfortunately i don't have a yellow valve spring!!!

The other one is red valve, yellow main. Which is the exact opposite of the previous mentioned spring combo. I saw ironchef using it in his duck.

I look forward to seeing how both of these do once the weather hits about 70F
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm bumping this thread.

So i went out Paintballing today. I haven't in a while, and decided to take ye old redux out.

It was about 65-70 degrees out. Maybe some 80's in the afternoon. I used a thunderpig springset for nelsons.

I tried DSA's red mainspring, yellow valve. I used a lapco cupseal. It got good velocity, but started decreasing FPS at around 8 shots WTF mate?

I then tried CJOttawa's red mainspring, blue valvespring. I used a CCI cupseal. And could not get to velocity, and got about 11 shots max.

I then tried Yellow-Yellow combo. I've heard this has worked too. I could not get it up to about 250. Not too many shots either.


Any suggestions?

-Richard.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:22 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I run green green thunder pigs in my duck and I get about 30 shots at 270+ fps.

If you're getting 250 max with yellow yellow, I believe Yellow valve with green main will get you there. Or possibly green valve and blue/red main.

I think you getting low efficiency with Red-Yellow because the dwell is too long... aka opening the valve for too long.

If that doesn't work I'd look into getting lapco #6 power tube and cut it to length.

Are you running a fluted hammer?

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:48 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I had a heck of a time for a while keeping R015 "up to speed" even with a Red main, Yellow Valve, so I started experimenting with PTs... I think that's the best way to get velocity and keep it. I get a reliable 28 shots around 280fps when it's not to cold out, using Red main, Yellow Valve, a .003-.005 underbore and using a modified Kingman Hammer PT... posts #60 and #86 in CJ's thread on PTs for short barreled guns here: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/r...rrel-guns.html
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