Paintball

[slinger]

Modified my tube today. Very easy to do.

I think I may drill it out more if needed, but I'm going to sEe where its at first.
I drilled out ports with a 1/8 drill bit, and the tube with a 3/16 I think.

I highly reccomend this mod.
Thank you for the idea and help cj

[CJOttawa]

Originally Posted by slinger

Modified my tube today. Very easy to do.

I think I may drill it out more if needed, but I'm going to sEe where its at first.
I drilled out ports with a 1/8 drill bit, and the tube with a 3/16 I think.

I highly reccomend this mod.
Thank you for the idea and help cj

One thing: I suggest using a conical diamond bit on a rotary tool for shaping and opening the ports.

A drill bit has the potential to hang up on the ports and damage the tube.

Using a drill bit on the front of the tube isn't an issue as long as you stop short of the ports.

[short304]

I just spent some time scouring the thread, and I still have no idea what the other PT is that Shadawg had for R015... BUT after reading through the thread, and still struggling to get over 270fps, I think I'm going to take some port and inner tube measurements and then bust out the dremel this weekend and see what I can't work up... that is until Ty gets around to producing that Ranger PT replica... it sounds promising!

Originally Posted by CJOttawa

One thing: I suggest using a conical diamond bit on a rotary tool for shaping and opening the ports.

A drill bit has the potential to hang up on the ports and damage the tube.

Using a drill bit on the front of the tube isn't an issue as long as you stop short of the ports.

[short304]

Originally Posted by DSA

LT,

Do you have a ball sizer?

Howzabout a tight 67 freak?

That should fix ya up.

Yeppers to the Ball Sizer. I've got one of the .675 inserts from Ty and I use it almost every time in the Dux... I've been messin around w/ some home-anodizing all day so I haven't had a chance to cut up the spare PT I've got, but I think I'll still give it a try...

I DEFINATELY like "testing" velocity w/ different inserts just to see the grouping over the chrono and without a doubt, it's always a tighter (and slightly faster) group w/ the .675 compared to the .679 or the .682 (using .680ish-sized paint). I may have to get a .670 soon tho, just for the hell of it

Oh and I've been called LT for so long, I haven't bothered to say anything, but I got promoted in july LT still works for me tho! LOL... 6.5mos and I'll be a civilian anyways! Woohoo!

Thanks again for the advice.

[CJOttawa]

Originally Posted by slinger

Modified my tube today. Very easy to do.

I think I may drill it out more if needed, but I'm going to sEe where its at first.
I drilled out ports with a 1/8 drill bit, and the tube with a 3/16 I think.

I highly reccomend this mod.
Thank you for the idea and help cj

Just noticed on a re-read: yes, it's a 3/16" bit you want, using plenty of cutting oil, though 3-in-1, gold cup or air-tool oil will work.

3/16" converts to decimal 0.1875".

Reference this: Nelson Powertube and Spring dimensions

#6 tubes are 0.187" to 0.189".

I drilled nine tubes out today and they mic'd out at ~0.189-0.190".

Use a depth stop collar and don't cut past or even to the ports as that's the weakest section of the tube.

[slinger]

Ok, well that's. Two strikes for me.


When I drilled it out I used a 3/16 bit all the way till I hat the base. Then I used a drill bit on the ports.



If I drill it out anymore, I'll make sure to stop before the ports.

On another note, after filing and grinding for 3 hours, I finally got an asa to fit inside a phantom 45 frame. Next step, drilling and tapping for a set screw and a new air port for a microline fitting.

[chopper duke]

Originally Posted by CJOttawa

Just noticed on a re-read: yes, it's a 3/16" bit you want, using plenty of cutting oil, though 3-in-1, gold cup or air-tool oil will work.

3/16" converts to decimal 0.1875".

Reference this: Nelson Powertube and Spring dimensions

#6 tubes are 0.187" to 0.189".

I drilled nine tubes out today and they mic'd out at ~0.189-0.190".

Use a depth stop collar and don't cut past or even to the ports as that's the weakest section of the tube.

CJ, I'm thinking of picking up another Power Tube to use in my Duck and boring it out. What bit are you using?

[CJOttawa]

Originally Posted by chopper duke

CJ, I'm thinking of picking up another Power Tube to use in my Duck and boring it out. What bit are you using?

I used a pretty standard 3/16" Titanium-Nitride coated bit from a multi-bit kit. Here's a photo of it with the depth stop collar installed, next to one of the WGP Ranger tubes I drilled out.

[CJOttawa]

I've been following the teachings of several Nelson gurus including our former "B". The consensus seems to be polishing is important to good gas flow and efficiency.

Following up the drilling, I had a thought that TyMcNeer corroborated for me:



A 3/16" reamer would leave a much smoother inner tube surface than a drill bit.
I'm planning to buy one tomorrow from Busy Bee tools and see what it does.

Nobody local has it. Ordered from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Alvord-Polk-Hi...1635134&sr=8-9

[PB Weasel]

CJ, I have been foregoing the drill bits, and going from mid 200 grit sandpaper rolled up in a drill chuck with a splash of WD40 up to 600 grit to polish the I'D of the powertubes. Works great, and fast with the cordless drill to spin the sandpaper. Just what I use.