Some questions for ya'll.

dm6rocker · 06-20-2011, 08:11 PM

Okay, so now that the cat's out of the bag...Yes, I am a happy little owner of a Redux. Serial #10 if you're curious. I've been browsing the knowledge base for the past few days in preparation for the new gun, but I feel I may have missed a few things.

First and foremost: Does everyone else have to take their slide off to remove the barrel all the way? It doesn't bother me in the least since the only reason I would have to remove it is to change the insert, just a curious question. Coming from a fixed barrel Duck, I really can't answer this one on my own. It unthreads fine, the second lip on the barrel (o-ring groove section) doesn't want to fit through the front. It's the same with either barrel. I checked with and without the o-ring, same deal.

Second. Powertubes: CJ, your threads on the subject have been extremely helpful. I'm just wondering if I would run into any issues using a Stock CCI powertube and TPC, in case anything breaks. They are the easiest stuff I can find replacements for, so I would like to have a few spares if need be. Also, general consensus is that the Lapco cupseals are the best, correct?

I'm strongly considering grabbing a milled hammer after seeing some other threads, and I definitely need a spring kit. It has a red main in there already, and a green valve. The only other valve springs I have are standard phantom ones. If I can get 30 shots off one .12g, I'm happy. Don't need more, but if I can get 40, why not.

That's about it really. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks fellas!

DSA · 06-20-2011, 09:36 PM

You must remove the slide to remove the stock barrel, sorry.

dm6rocker · 06-20-2011, 10:04 PM

Thought so. Like I said, no worries. I have no reason to take it on and off in the middle of a match. I was just very curious about it.

PB Weasel · 06-20-2011, 11:28 PM

For powertubes I cut down a lapco 6 and then debur it along the cut edge. They work great. Highly recommend a spring kit, as you already mentioned wanting one I say be sure to eventually find one as they are key to redux efficiency. Also underscore by .004 to .008 for best results with tourney grade paint.

DSA · 06-21-2011, 12:05 AM

So who had number 10 before you D? I would love to see more photos too

dm6rocker · 06-21-2011, 06:53 AM

It was extreme4life's before mine. He was the original owner, I'm number 2. And I'll be working on some new pictures when I get out of work today. It's crappy out by me, but hopefully it clears up later.

CJOttawa · 06-21-2011, 08:51 AM

The only downside to a lower-flowing (read: "narrower ID") powertube or TPC is difficulty in reaching reasonable shooting velocity. You might max out below what you'd want to shoot (220fps, 240fps).

You do NOT want to gronk down too far on the TPC/velocity adjuster as you'll eventually cause binding, valve squeak and possibly have the TPC pop out.

You can drill out most power tubes to #6 specs. I'd suggest making a special drill bit for this: round the tip off so you don't cause burrs near the porting.

The milled hammer and broached TPC (ASP mod - hex adjuster) are mandatory in my book. I keep one in gun and one spare. Neither of those are likely to break. The powertube is the thing you really want spares of.

I'd also suggest using a valve insert to keep liquid from siphoning.

Other than that, you might consider doing some sear work to lighten the trigger pull and that's it, short of milling the feed block.

dm6rocker · 06-21-2011, 09:21 AM

Thanks for the info, CJ! It's looking like I'll stock up on some Lapco #6's and cup seals. I've got the necessary tools to cut them down. Super Stanchy usually has a nice supply of milled hammers, but ASP is out of the modded TPCs at the moment.

From what I can recall, a spent .44 Magnum casing fits perfect in the valve, right? I'll have to read into it more.

Amusingly enough, I don't seem to be getting any pinches. I think I'm already used to the "method" for these because of my other Duck. I also have the unmodded snub, I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Trigger ain't bad either. Nicer than the pull on my Duck.

llaw999 · 06-30-2011, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dm6rocker

It's looking like I'll stock up on some Lapco #6's and cup seals.

Are you talking about Lapco cup seals? I vaguely remember people saying they restrict air flow because of the larger diameter... or something like that. Might want to find out before getting a bunch.

PB Weasel · 06-30-2011, 06:19 PM

The redux is not a high shot volume machine, you would only notice the restriction on a semi-auto or high volume pump with an AT. I have used the lapco cupseals for quite some time with no issues.

06-20-2011, 08:11 PM	#1 (permalink)
dm6rocker Lever fund: $330.52/???? Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somewhere over there.	Some questions for ya'll. Okay, so now that the cat's out of the bag...Yes, I am a happy little owner of a Redux. Serial #10 if you're curious. I've been browsing the knowledge base for the past few days in preparation for the new gun, but I feel I may have missed a few things. First and foremost: Does everyone else have to take their slide off to remove the barrel all the way? It doesn't bother me in the least since the only reason I would have to remove it is to change the insert, just a curious question. Coming from a fixed barrel Duck, I really can't answer this one on my own. It unthreads fine, the second lip on the barrel (o-ring groove section) doesn't want to fit through the front. It's the same with either barrel. I checked with and without the o-ring, same deal. Second. Powertubes: CJ, your threads on the subject have been extremely helpful. I'm just wondering if I would run into any issues using a Stock CCI powertube and TPC, in case anything breaks. They are the easiest stuff I can find replacements for, so I would like to have a few spares if need be. Also, general consensus is that the Lapco cupseals are the best, correct? I'm strongly considering grabbing a milled hammer after seeing some other threads, and I definitely need a spring kit. It has a red main in there already, and a green valve. The only other valve springs I have are standard phantom ones. If I can get 30 shots off one .12g, I'm happy. Don't need more, but if I can get 40, why not. That's about it really. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks fellas! __________________ My Feedback 75+ 0- You could live in this illusion...you can choose to believe...

06-20-2011, 10:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
dm6rocker Lever fund: $330.52/???? Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somewhere over there.	Thought so. Like I said, no worries. I have no reason to take it on and off in the middle of a match. I was just very curious about it. __________________ My Feedback 75+ 0- You could live in this illusion...you can choose to believe...

06-20-2011, 11:28 PM	#4 (permalink)
PB Weasel Sneaky Little Bastid #3 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Burlington, Massachusetts	For powertubes I cut down a lapco 6 and then debur it along the cut edge. They work great. Highly recommend a spring kit, as you already mentioned wanting one I say be sure to eventually find one as they are key to redux efficiency. Also underscore by .004 to .008 for best results with tourney grade paint. __________________ My Feedback:http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...ml#post1449446

06-30-2011, 06:19 PM	#10 (permalink)
PB Weasel Sneaky Little Bastid #3 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Burlington, Massachusetts	The redux is not a high shot volume machine, you would only notice the restriction on a semi-auto or high volume pump with an AT. I have used the lapco cupseals for quite some time with no issues. __________________ My Feedback:http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...ml#post1449446

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06-21-2011, 06:53 AM	#6 (permalink)
dm6rocker Lever fund: $330.52/???? Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somewhere over there.	It was extreme4life's before mine. He was the original owner, I'm number 2. And I'll be working on some new pictures when I get out of work today. It's crappy out by me, but hopefully it clears up later.

06-21-2011, 08:51 AM	#7 (permalink)
CJOttawa Immune to sales tactics. Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Canada's National Capital	The only downside to a lower-flowing (read: "narrower ID") powertube or TPC is difficulty in reaching reasonable shooting velocity. You might max out below what you'd want to shoot (220fps, 240fps). You do NOT want to gronk down too far on the TPC/velocity adjuster as you'll eventually cause binding, valve squeak and possibly have the TPC pop out. You can drill out most power tubes to #6 specs. I'd suggest making a special drill bit for this: round the tip off so you don't cause burrs near the porting. The milled hammer and broached TPC (ASP mod - hex adjuster) are mandatory in my book. I keep one in gun and one spare. Neither of those are likely to break. The powertube is the thing you really want spares of. I'd also suggest using a valve insert to keep liquid from siphoning. Other than that, you might consider doing some sear work to lighten the trigger pull and that's it, short of milling the feed block.

06-21-2011, 09:21 AM	#8 (permalink)
dm6rocker Lever fund: $330.52/???? Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somewhere over there.	Thanks for the info, CJ! It's looking like I'll stock up on some Lapco #6's and cup seals. I've got the necessary tools to cut them down. Super Stanchy usually has a nice supply of milled hammers, but ASP is out of the modded TPCs at the moment. From what I can recall, a spent .44 Magnum casing fits perfect in the valve, right? I'll have to read into it more. Amusingly enough, I don't seem to be getting any pinches. I think I'm already used to the "method" for these because of my other Duck. I also have the unmodded snub, I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Trigger ain't bad either. Nicer than the pull on my Duck.