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Timber_Ghost 06-07-2012 02:03 AM

Viper leak
 
Hi guys. My viper sprang a faint leak today. I can't tell if it's the face seal from the 12ie dropout or the oring at the front of the valve. Before I take it apart is there anything I should be aware of specific to these guns? Also, will I need a Sheridan valve tool to access the valve? And if it is a face seal, would a CCI seal work in there. Pics of my viper are the last ones in the pic thread but I will post them here tomorrow as well.

Thanks in advance.

funsi00 06-07-2012 01:51 PM

I would air up the marker again and use some liquid soap on those two areas. Chamber face seal from CCI is close, it may work in a pinch. Check with MaD. He sells those sheridan parts and seals. A valve tool will be needed to replace oring on chamber plug.

Long Beard 06-07-2012 02:07 PM

The face seals are different on RTP's with the drop out. Those are the 007 instapierce pins, not the traditional Sheridan valve style.

Like Funsi said, if it's the valve o-ring you'll need a valve tool. (if you're going to be keeping this marker, or have a hankering for any other brass, you mid-as-well pick on up from Titus anyway).

Where's it leaking from? Down the barrel? Around where the 12 gram is seating? That would help a little in diagnosing it.

Timber_Ghost 06-07-2012 03:12 PM

I can't tell exactly. I sounds like the leak is coming from where the 12 gram is seating but its possible that it is coming from the front of the valve housing and the air is just coming through the dropout.

Long Beard 06-07-2012 03:38 PM

One both of mine, that seating just unscrews. You could unscrew it, and plumbers tape it then screw it back in...make sure it's sealed properly into the body. While it's out....check the seal on where the 12 gram sits. If it leaks after that, then maybe the valve seal. Just an idea.

How faint of a leak is it? I'd use some lube on another 12 gram too and see if tis' still leaking....

MaD 06-07-2012 03:43 PM

Never gutted a viper. If it's an actual 007 instapierce then I may have a face seal that would work. I did make a punch for the nelspot ones and made a few urethane ones that I used in Nelspots with good results but I never really followed through on that one. :D The CCI ones are close to that size but because of the hardness I've had mixed results. If it's a CCI or other (BE?) instapierce, then a CCI seal is probably the best bet. Either way, they're not expensive and always nice to have on hand. If the rest is normal sheridan guts, I do have some obviously.

The setup on that gun confuses me. So CA is going into the valve and you're using a spent 12g to seal off the front of the valve (where the instapierce is?).

Long Beard 06-07-2012 04:01 PM

Sorry I mis-spoke....as soon as Mad posted it jogged my brain. They are Nelspot ones. The CCI ones are threaded too big.

Timber_Ghost 06-07-2012 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaD (Post 2371390)

...The setup on that gun confuses me. So CA is going into the valve and you're using a spent 12g to seal off the front of the valve (where the instapierce is?).

Correct. Lever changer holds a spent 12ie in place to seal off the air chamber.

Thanks for the advice everybody. I'll let u all know what I find out when I get a chance to pull it apart later.

Timber_Ghost 06-07-2012 08:11 PM

Found my problem. The threads in the valve where the cup seal screws in seems to be stripped out. However, I wrapped a bunch of teflon tape around the base of the shaft, so that when there is an empty 12ie in the lever dropout, it presses the teflon taped shaft against the valve enough to seal the leak off. I'm not totally satisfied with this, but at least the gun is holding air for now.

Long Beard 06-07-2012 09:39 PM

The threading in the gun isnt' stripped, the threading on the rod is stripped right? that's easier to replace. If you ever have serious issues with it, give RTP an e-mail.


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