Gargoyle Barrels and Bushings - Page 3

thisissparta · 06-29-2010, 11:47 AM

I'm using phantom bushings, but it's on a Phantom body (the Gargantom) so I don't know there is less clearance than on a Gargoyle...

Does anyone have cocker bushings and a python kit? They're all the same OD except the twistlock, and I'm just wondering if it would be worthwhile to get a cocker bushing or just bore out my current one, or just go without.

Greenmtnphantom · 06-29-2010, 11:50 AM

I'll check my python in the cocker bushings ASAP

Mayvik · 06-29-2010, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironchef97

Really? That's weird, mine worked fine when I had it. Wait are you using phantom bushings?

Yes, that was with the Phantom bushings.

ironchef97 · 06-29-2010, 09:27 PM

Oh, I was using Cocker bushings...with the Cocker threaded Python kit.

Mayvik · 06-30-2010, 09:27 PM

That's probably it. I only have the Phantom bushings and no tool. Wasn't having any rollout issues using small crappy paint with the adapter anyway, so I'm not too worried about it!

Siress · 06-30-2010, 10:24 PM

I find that there's no use for the tool. I can break them loose by locking a finger across the ID and tighten them just the same. I don't use the stock barrel, but that's probably the only place to use the tool. The valve cap...maybe...the edges on the milling are sharp enough to cut a few layers of skin if you're not careful.

RTR · 07-01-2010, 10:30 AM

The main purpose of the tool is to be able to tighten the barrel into the adapter while the adapter is inside the body of the Gargoyle and not tighten the adapter to the body. Reason for this is so when you want to open up the feed block you can back out the adapter from the body using the barrel and not just spin the barrel out of the adapter. As you know the adapter or a cocker barrel needs to be backed out in order for the bolt and hammer to be able to come out. The tool locks onto the adapter, the lug on the tool rests on the side of the Garg body to keep the adapter from just tightening into the body of the gun when you tighten the barrel to the adapter.

And visa versa when you was to remove the barrel from the adapter. Just flip the tool around. Course you could use a wrench but you will scratch your parts.

The bushings can indeed be tightened finger tight. Not as tight as that last snug up with the tool. And if you happen to tighten the bushings so tight it is almost like a tool was used, you may have issues removing them, and some really tired painful fingers.

idkfa · 07-02-2010, 10:22 AM

I seem to recall the Eigenbarrel working, with a bushing, not sure which one though.

Greenmtnphantom · 07-07-2010, 05:12 PM

Just curious what length barrels people are using on their gargoyles

Siress · 07-07-2010, 05:24 PM

11"

06-30-2010, 09:27 PM	#25 (permalink)
Mayvik Inch of Gold Join Date: May 2007 Location: Denver	That's probably it. I only have the Phantom bushings and no tool. Wasn't having any rollout issues using small crappy paint with the adapter anyway, so I'm not too worried about it! __________________ My Feedback

06-30-2010, 10:24 PM	#26 (permalink)
Siress Bigger Balls Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Atlanta, GA	I find that there's no use for the tool. I can break them loose by locking a finger across the ID and tighten them just the same. I don't use the stock barrel, but that's probably the only place to use the tool. The valve cap...maybe...the edges on the milling are sharp enough to cut a few layers of skin if you're not careful. __________________ Feedback: MCB, SCP, PHOG, PBN, and My eBay account

07-01-2010, 10:30 AM	#27 (permalink)
RTR MCB Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Massachusetts	The main purpose of the tool is to be able to tighten the barrel into the adapter while the adapter is inside the body of the Gargoyle and not tighten the adapter to the body. Reason for this is so when you want to open up the feed block you can back out the adapter from the body using the barrel and not just spin the barrel out of the adapter. As you know the adapter or a cocker barrel needs to be backed out in order for the bolt and hammer to be able to come out. The tool locks onto the adapter, the lug on the tool rests on the side of the Garg body to keep the adapter from just tightening into the body of the gun when you tighten the barrel to the adapter. And visa versa when you was to remove the barrel from the adapter. Just flip the tool around. Course you could use a wrench but you will scratch your parts. The bushings can indeed be tightened finger tight. Not as tight as that last snug up with the tool. And if you happen to tighten the bushings so tight it is almost like a tool was used, you may have issues removing them, and some really tired painful fingers. __________________ www.remembertheronin.com http://isppa.semkhor.com/page.asp?content_id=9145 Last edited by RTR; 07-01-2010 at 06:28 PM.

07-02-2010, 10:22 AM	#28 (permalink)
idkfa Stock Class Aficionado Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada	I seem to recall the Eigenbarrel working, with a bushing, not sure which one though. __________________ MCB Feedback The PhOG Feedback eBay Feedback Newfoundland Paintball Supply

07-07-2010, 05:24 PM	#30 (permalink)
Siress Bigger Balls Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Atlanta, GA	11" __________________ Feedback: MCB, SCP, PHOG, PBN, and My eBay account

06-29-2010, 09:27 PM	#24 (permalink)
ironchef97 . Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SD	Oh, I was using Cocker bushings...with the Cocker threaded Python kit.

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