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Old 04-10-2014, 11:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PhantomGSI View Post
Very interested in seeing this T2 UC concept...Any thoughts on attempting other builds or is this a one off?
With as much of a pain in the butt as this was I am going to say it is a one off.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
Sorry, that's classified.
 
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With as much of a pain in the butt as this was I am going to say it is a one off.
Won't change anyone's mind on how good it looks. I'll actually have to buy some tools, but I want to try that myself.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You coming out? Sure I can bring it out, not done yet but you can fondle it.
I am. I don't have a team\teammate for the 2x20 game but I've had some stuff to give to you guys for a while now n I've been jonesin to play the past couple weekends so I'll prob just play rec unless I can get a teammate for the tourney
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There are always walk ons at the last minute, we will see what we can do for you.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes baby!
That looks awesome
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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For those that wanted to know:
Thoughts on the T2 under cocking kit that I made:

I knew it would cause a stir, heck it looks great. The handle lends itself well to the dual rod style of the Gargoyle trigger group, I don’t think it would work very well with a regular Phantom due to the Phantom only having one pump rod. Even with the additional main guide rod I think that the handle would want to twist in the direction of the side without a rod.
To mod the pump plate you will need to drill two new rod holes (this is for a Gargoyle), here are the dimensions that I used:
Distance down form the lowest point of the radius on the pump plate to the centerline of the 10-32 holes- .140 of an inch (distance in the Y)
Next I centered on the 3/8 diameter to zero the X axis, you could use an indicator and sweep the one inch diameter of the pump plate but I took this easy route. The two new 10-32 holes are.233 in either direction off center for a total of .466 of an inch between (.465 is the actual but I rounded up when I dialed off the distances I would speculate that you can vary as much as +/-.005 of an inch and be okay).
Now for the fun part, the main guide rod and holder. The basic shape that I went with is .750 long x .880 wide x .600 thk, milled out of 6061 aluminum, once the part was squared up I then milled a recess or step on the top at .05 deep with .05 walls on either side cantered on the .880 width (this creates a small well for the frame to sit in, the trigger frame is about .780). I put a ¼ radius on the backside of the block so that it blended with the frame, I made it tangent with the step. The hole for the main guide rod is a 3/8 diameter drilled through. The distance from the bottom of the step (mentioned before) is .317 to center (the 3/8 diameter is center on the .880). Either before or after depending on how you want to do it, drill or mill a 3/16 diameter hole for the 8-32 screw. I milled a slot in the bracket so that I can slide it over the head of the screw once it is mounted (well I messed up and ended up with a happy mistake), the start point is at .18 from the front of the block and the end point is at .4135 from the front of the block (center to center of the radii/ diameters). The angled cut was done by eyeball, I lined it up using a parallel, so that when cut the cut would end at the tangency of the ¼ radii and the front edge. Lastly I rounded the sides using the ¼ corner round that I used for the back.
The guide rod is pretty straight forward. Turn a 3/8 diameter SST rod, face both ends for an overall length of 4 inches (give or take +/-.02). Then drill a 3/16 diameter hole .480 from one end, counterbore the 3/16 diameter hole with a 3/8 diameter end mill or drill about 3/16 deep or .1875 deep. Once assembled the head of a pan head screw should be flush to below flush with the rod.
The secondary guide rod can be done one of two ways. Either buy a new rod from CCI and cut it down or use 3/16 diameter SST rod and thread one end at 10-32. I used a geometric die head, you can use a standard die but it will be a work out, I suggest the CCI guide rod for those with limited tools (or use the one that came with your Garg. If you’re doing this to it).
Once all that is done it is just a matter of getting the pump stroke to the right length (I trimmed about a half inch off the threads on the CCI pump rod and then cut the same amount off the secondary guide rod, I didn’t have to trim the main at all at this part).
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:49 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I like it!

That CCM pump is what I really would have prefered a while ago when I had someone do a one off for me.

Sigh.



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Old 04-11-2014, 04:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jkoselka View Post
With as much of a pain in the butt as this was I am going to say it is a one off.
How much financial lube would be required to ease the posterior discomfort from building a 2nd one?

Before you all go "Oh no he dinnit" , we're all thinkin bout payin the man... I'm just gunna be "That guy"
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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How much financial lube would be required to ease the posterior discomfort from building a 2nd one?

Before you all go "Oh no he dinnit" , we're all thinkin bout payin the man... I'm just gunna be "That guy"
Nah, I was waiting.

This real issue is that the mod will only really work on a Gargoyle trigger frame. You need the two smaller guide rods in conjunction with the main rod for it to work. If your trying to do this on a Garg then I might maybe think about it, on a Phantom I just don't think it would work too well.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jkoselka View Post
Nah, I was waiting.

This real issue is that the mod will only really work on a Gargoyle trigger frame. You need the two smaller guide rods in conjunction with the main rod for it to work. If your trying to do this on a Garg then I might maybe think about it, on a Phantom I just don't think it would work too well.
Dammit, guess I'll hafta wait til Rodney machines a few more of em.
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