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Old 04-18-2010, 05:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot for the help. but I thing that work is better done by a 'smith. not me.
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This is a common misconception. The marker in question is actually from a limited run that WGP produced to try using the little finger as the firing finger to promote digital ambidexterity. Unfortunately, the gravity inverter needed to feed paintballs was sold separately.
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thats a very good description of how to modify a sheridan 3022, the drill press and tap method seems to be the most common and easy especially if you want to preserve your finish.

The pps tune is not very expensive when you consider the time and skill involved aska, and it has changed very little in price over the last 10 years even with labor costs almost doubling across america in that time, it includes a new cupseal and internals($25 i think) too. The time it takes to get the gun back is the hardest part.

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Old 04-19-2010, 12:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, now that I look at it. It's a pretty good deal. Great efficiency, RVA and a rebuild for $90 is a very fair price.
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Originally Posted by Sir_Frag View Post
This is a common misconception. The marker in question is actually from a limited run that WGP produced to try using the little finger as the firing finger to promote digital ambidexterity. Unfortunately, the gravity inverter needed to feed paintballs was sold separately.
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Originally Posted by jokers
I play pump because I'm a masochistic bastard who gets his jollies from being outgunned but not outplayed.
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I am in the middle of doing a lot of experiments on Sheridan (specifically KP2) efficiency modding. A lot of it is based off the comments and analysis of 3022, he has some GREAT great ideas. I will post results sometime, currently I did a really crazy modification of my sheridan valve. There is a problem with the PPS performance tune on the valve, the set screw that goes in the bottom of the valve/lower tube does NOT seal the bottom of the valve hole, so you will get some air loss. I JB welded that hole closed, along with applying it in some other key areas. I am also of the opinion now that a weak valve spring is the key, but it must be used with a VERY light hammer. I sent that hammer to rainman for some serious lightening...
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry, I might have missed something but, what is the point in lightening the hammer to reduce the dwell time if it can simply be done by adjusting the RVA (or shimming the valve spring)? A lighter main spring is supposed to do that, correct me if I'm wrong but Palmer provides a RVA with the "Performance tuning" in this purpose (?).

Could you enlighten me please?
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's better to have a longer spring than a heavier one. It provides more throw. That's the PPS guns have longer valve tubes than top tubes.
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Originally Posted by Sir_Frag View Post
This is a common misconception. The marker in question is actually from a limited run that WGP produced to try using the little finger as the firing finger to promote digital ambidexterity. Unfortunately, the gravity inverter needed to feed paintballs was sold separately.
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Originally Posted by jokers
I play pump because I'm a masochistic bastard who gets his jollies from being outgunned but not outplayed.
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RaSs_FR View Post
Sorry, I might have missed something but, what is the point in lightening the hammer to reduce the dwell time if it can simply be done by adjusting the RVA (or shimming the valve spring)? A lighter main spring is supposed to do that, correct me if I'm wrong but Palmer provides a RVA with the "Performance tuning" in this purpose (?).

Could you enlighten me please?
Lightening the hammer is not to reduce dwell time primarily, it is to eliminate hammer bounce. The hammer is so heavy that a lot of gas is wasted, The reason why is that the hammer has a lot of momentum at the point in time when it strikes the valve stem. Due to all this momentum, the hammer bounces backwards and moves forward again, hitting the valve stem again and releasing additional gas into the bolt. This gas is wasted, because the primary blast of air already started the ball moving down the barrel.

sometimes up to 1.5x the air required for a shot is used...over the course of a 12 gram, you may see 27-30 shots, but with a lightened hammer, you could see upwards of 40.

Try dry firing your gun (i.e. no air), and listen closely. You can hear the hammer hit more than once...it sounds like bbrbrbrbrb, when it could sound more like a pop if it wasn't bouncing.

Everything in a valve system (in my opinion) has to be in balance in order to achieve good efficiency.

To me, this means:
-lightened hammer to reduce/eliminate hammer bounce
-enlarged bolt face and bolt transfer hole
-enlarged transfer port between the tubes
-enlarged valve hole
-plugging the other 3 holes in the valve
-orienting the valve so the remaining open hole is directly facing the transfer port
-light valve spring
-Dynavalve stem
-maybe a nelson bolt o-ring on the right side of valve in the below picture.
***a nice side effect of these changes is you need a shorter main spring, which means a lighter pump (or if you're lucky, lighter lever ) stroke.

Here is a picture of some of the valve work I've done. I plugged the 3 holes not showing, and put JB weld into the 'trench' around the valve.


I believe this will be more efficient than the PPS performance tune. I have studied that design, and although two of the 4 holes are plugged, the bottom hole actually leaks some air, because the setscrew used to orient the valve does not seal. Also, by filling the trench, all the air has to go directly into the transfer hole, and can't escape down the trench sides.

Last edited by ironchef97; 04-20-2010 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASKA View Post
It's better to have a longer spring than a heavier one. It provides more throw. That's the PPS guns have longer valve tubes than top tubes.
Yes, this is another good point, but when modifying existing KP2s, you can't really elongate the valve tube without some serious work unfortunately.
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:03 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Ha, the bouncing, i read 3022 too quickly. Yep mine is surely bouncing, it goes like a loud "PLOMP" ("plomp" should be the french "brrbrbbbr" lol). I have never shot more than a 20ish good shoots, but i was knowing that the KP isn't very efficient before i had it though. Always wanted to palmerize it, I could do it by myself but the only part i can't do is soldering the 2 sides of the airport so here i'm screwed.

Thanks you all for your knowledge, i learned something today. The bouncing. Will have to check my hammer, and drill it. Couldn't be bad even on a stock KP, right?
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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If I remember correctly, the valve tube on a PPS pistol is set up the same as a KP2, in regards to all the holes and grooves cut into it.
You can take a PPS size Sergi K-frame and attach it to a KP2 lower tube.
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