non-PPS Performance tuning
I'm not too comfortable sending a gun to PPS and would not like to pay $90.
I've read that to make a Sheridan non cartridge valve more efficient, you have to drill and plug some holes in the valve and such. What are the exact steps(pictures would be helpful)? could this be done with a Dremel?(I have the drill press attachment)
If this is not easily done at home with out a mill or drill press, who can offer me a sub $40 service?
PM a guy on here named Stuffy.
He does some good brass work and I know him personally. (he is actually paying me to say things.)
Contact G & H customs!
Hey, I am not paying you anything Greg! Your girlfriend now, that's a different story. ;) :nonsense:
Pm me with specifics. And I'll review it.
pm m3 ur l0w3st pr1c3.:LMAO:
You can make it only with drillpress and tap (to seal the hole in bottom with set screw), but it has some disadvantages. Above all, you will be not able entlarge the pasage too far, because you using the solder as wall of the hole.
Best is resolder the tubes, drill the bore, put here new, larger tube and solder that again. There you can improve the performance really terrifically.
For comparsion, from this, you can presume how big can be the hole in drilled marker:
And from this, how big is the hole on Palmer guns:
The bigger is better here, the only limitation is the valve body width and the half of the diameter of paintball (to seal the chamber in PGP)... what is around 8mm.
There are some old pics of my:
Stock PGP tubes after polishing:
Halves with new tube from discharged .22 LR shell:
Drilled and inserted, ready to resoldering:
And this is difference on chrono:
(the same gun, the same internals only with stock tube with 4mm ID and resoldered with 5.2mm ID)
And here is the Airflow with different tubes ID:
(used tubes: stock, drilled, .22LR, 6.35mm Browning, 7.65mm Brownng, 9mm Parabelum)
Today, I use at least 7.65mm Browning cartridges to get better airflow, but preferably .45 ACP cartridges deformed to oval, where is internal dimension ~7x14mm and the results are even far better (30+ shoots above 250 fps)... but it needs likewise changes on valve, naturaly.
Regrettably, I have problems with my computer, so I can not post here the new pics.
But more than valve mods can make here hammer lightening - because with valve mods you commonly only improve the maximal flow of valve, but to be able use it for better economy, you need reduce the dwell time... and eliminate the bouncing - what is hard to do without lighter hammer.
But on other side, to be able get good velocities with really very light hammer (below 25 gram... stock weighs ~42 grams) you need likewise the to have great airflow = large hole between of the tubes.
So there are three steps:
- entlargement of the hole
- valve mods
- hammer lightening
(+ spring modding, but that is more likely part of final velocity adjustment)
When you do them in good way, the they will work for you even separately. But when you join them, the difference will be a lot bigger. Normally 1+1+1=3 but here 1+1+1=111.
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