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-   -   non-PPS Performance tuning (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/sheridan/115666-non-pps-performance-tuning.html)

ASKA 04-11-2010 05:57 PM

non-PPS Performance tuning
 
I'm not too comfortable sending a gun to PPS and would not like to pay $90.

I've read that to make a Sheridan non cartridge valve more efficient, you have to drill and plug some holes in the valve and such. What are the exact steps(pictures would be helpful)? could this be done with a Dremel?(I have the drill press attachment)

If this is not easily done at home with out a mill or drill press, who can offer me a sub $40 service?

Tbuck 04-11-2010 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASKA (Post 1255870)
I'm not too comfortable sending a gun to PPS and would not like to pay $90.

I've read that to make a Sheridan non cartridge valve more efficient, you have to drill and plug some holes in the valve and such. What are the exact steps(pictures would be helpful)? could this be done with a Dremel?(I have the drill press attachment)

If this is not easily done at home with out a mill or drill press, who can offer me a sub $40 service?

I believe there is a passage way between the upper and lower tube that needs to be drilled also. Otherwise, just modifying the valve will be pointless. Some of the other more knowledgeable folks on here can tell you more.

netsurferdude2 04-11-2010 08:40 PM

PM a guy on here named Stuffy.

He does some good brass work and I know him personally. (he is actually paying me to say things.)

funsi00 04-11-2010 08:43 PM

Contact G & H customs!

Stuffy 04-12-2010 08:58 AM

Hey, I am not paying you anything Greg! Your girlfriend now, that's a different story. ;) :nonsense:

ASKA 04-12-2010 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stuffy (Post 1256646)
Hey, I am not paying you anything Greg! Your girlfriend now, that's a different story. ;) :nonsense:

Hey stuffy, would you tune a gun for me? maybe include one of your new magic valve stem? could you do it under $50?

Stuffy 04-12-2010 01:47 PM

Pm me with specifics. And I'll review it.

ASKA 04-12-2010 05:24 PM

pm m3 ur l0w3st pr1c3.:LMAO:

PM'd

3022 04-18-2010 03:33 AM

You can make it only with drillpress and tap (to seal the hole in bottom with set screw), but it has some disadvantages. Above all, you will be not able entlarge the pasage too far, because you using the solder as wall of the hole.

Best is resolder the tubes, drill the bore, put here new, larger tube and solder that again. There you can improve the performance really terrifically.

For comparsion, from this, you can presume how big can be the hole in drilled marker:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/ladeni_PG...ni_vrtanim.jpg

And from this, how big is the hole on Palmer guns:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/ladeni_P6...teci_otvor.gif

The bigger is better here, the only limitation is the valve body width and the half of the diameter of paintball (to seal the chamber in PGP)... what is around 8mm.

There are some old pics of my:

Stock PGP tubes after polishing:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._rozpajeni.jpg

After resoldering:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/02-rozpajeno.jpg

Halves with new tube from discharged .22 LR shell:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/03-rozpajeno.jpg

Drilled and inserted, ready to resoldering:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG...o_k_pajeni.jpg

After soldering:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PGP/05-spajeno.jpg

Polishing:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._lesteno_1.jpg

Final polishing:
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/pajeni_PG..._lesteno_2.jpg

And this is difference on chrono:
(the same gun, the same internals only with stock tube with 4mm ID and resoldered with 5.2mm ID)
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/ladeni_PG...otvor_22LR.gif

And here is the Airflow with different tubes ID:
(used tubes: stock, drilled, .22LR, 6.35mm Browning, 7.65mm Brownng, 9mm Parabelum)
http://www.pgp.mysteria.cz/ladeni_PG...bicky-graf.gif

Today, I use at least 7.65mm Browning cartridges to get better airflow, but preferably .45 ACP cartridges deformed to oval, where is internal dimension ~7x14mm and the results are even far better (30+ shoots above 250 fps)... but it needs likewise changes on valve, naturaly.

Regrettably, I have problems with my computer, so I can not post here the new pics.

3022 04-18-2010 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuck (Post 1256090)
I believe there is a passage way between the upper and lower tube that needs to be drilled also. Otherwise, just modifying the valve will be pointless. Some of the other more knowledgeable folks on here can tell you more.

Valve modification can help even without the entlargement of the hole. But because the airflow will be after the valve still limited width the hole between tubes, there are borders what you can not cross without the hole entlargement... especially when that what you will are more shoots above ~240 fps - the combination of the short 6" barrel and small airflow is here limitation (with longer barrel, for example in P68SC, the valve mods can improve the performance more).

But more than valve mods can make here hammer lightening - because with valve mods you commonly only improve the maximal flow of valve, but to be able use it for better economy, you need reduce the dwell time... and eliminate the bouncing - what is hard to do without lighter hammer.

But on other side, to be able get good velocities with really very light hammer (below 25 gram... stock weighs ~42 grams) you need likewise the to have great airflow = large hole between of the tubes.

So there are three steps:
- entlargement of the hole
- valve mods
- hammer lightening
(+ spring modding, but that is more likely part of final velocity adjustment)

When you do them in good way, the they will work for you even separately. But when you join them, the difference will be a lot bigger. Normally 1+1+1=3 but here 1+1+1=111.


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