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Old 04-05-2006, 03:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Peter AKA warfrat, recommends turning the the valve nut backwards so you feel sort of a click before you start to screw in the valve nut. doing that, lets you know that you have it square with the threads and you won't crossthread it.

PPS has the nuts and www.jgairguns.biz will have them as well.

i'd for sure drill a hole for an allen wrench in your tool. that maybe part of your problem in getting it back together. it would be hard to do it without the T-handle.
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've got 2 PGP's that I'm going to be replacing cup seals and valves on. Wish me luck, I'm gonna need it. god invented me to stick with music and computers but to STAY away from trying to fix anything with more than 3 parts.
I know that there was some sort of online guide or "how-to" for this but I'm not sure who created it, was it Kampfer? Anyone have that URL per chance?

Another stupid question while I'm at it, is there a recommended way to strip of the finish and expose that sexy brassy goodness underneath or should I just use heavy grit sandpaper and a metal file?(J/K)
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Phantom, no harm taken, I didn't think I replied in angst (internet doesn't allow for any 'intonation' in your online 'voice'). Thank you for the help, if that clear it up!

As for backing the nut up, I tried that before inserting the nut, like I said I'm mechanically inclined, so I think my problem was pushing too hard and forcing it into the threads, since I couldn't tell how much pressure I was placing on it due to the strong spring pressure.

Second: As for the pringle screw, I have the valve in correctly, and then realized I forgot the pringle screw. However, when I tried to put it in its spot, it wouldn't go in the hole due to the valve stem being in the way. So I backed out the valve guts, put the pringle screw in, then put the guts in again (opposite your method). However, all the pieces of the valve cleared the pringle screw just fine, so I don't think that way my problem. However, how do you get the pringle screw in when the valve is already installed? I haven't figured that one out yet...
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i just got through putting in a new pringle screw in a kp with the valve in it. i guess i got lucky because i just dropped the pringle down the tube and it fell right into place. it wasn't hard at all.

here's a link to valve nuts. there's a $9 minimum shipping charge though, so you might want to get a list of some spare parts to order with the nut to make it worth it.

http://jgairguns.biz/catalog/product...oducts_id=8877
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link, Chad, I just ordered a few parts from him and didn't include those. I'll have to go to Palmers I guess. I need parts from them too...
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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no problem man...

i know how it is, it's seems that just one store never has all the parts you need and you have to place more than one order. oh well... at least you'll have the parts you need.

good luck on gettin' her put back together.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I have a brass barrel on my Hammer... does that count?
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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the next piece of brass on my hit list is a side feed kp oh yeah I want to have a KL built soooo bad
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:49 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONX
the next piece of brass on my hit list is a side feed kp oh yeah I want to have a KL built soooo bad
ONX, the "brass black hole" doesn't have a KP2SC ?? This does not compute!
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Old 04-06-2006, 04:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Does this count as Sheridan brass goodness?

Sheridan Blue Streak and Sheridan Model F



The Model F will see Palmer someday to have a bolt action put onto it.

-SpyyMarket

Last edited by SpyyMarket1978; 04-06-2006 at 04:16 AM.
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