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Old 04-05-2006, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brass Addicts...

this thread is for all of you out there that are addicted to brass.

consider this as group therapy. it helps to talk about it and express your feelings about this addiction, and we can give suggestions on how to feed your addiction.

behold the power of brass...
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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MMMMMMM brassy woodness.....
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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my old sigline from MCB:

Once you go brass, you never go back.
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I've only got 2 sheridans so far, but I'm craving more. Gotta get myself some stock class brass now.
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've actually got a question: I'm working on restoring my KP2 right now, and I've had a lot of trouble with the valve removal/installation. I can get everything out correctly and get it all back in the right order, but when it comes down to getting the brass valve retaining nut secure, I've been striking out...

First, I smashed up the lead o-ring, so I got rid of that since it's useless. Then when attempting to push down on the nut and turn it at the same time, I pretty much destroyed the threads on the nut (anyone know a good source for new valve retaining nuts? Does Palmers have them?). I assume the internal threads are alright, after inspection with a flashlight, but I need to get a better way to put it together.

Finally, I only have a straight square-bar stock valve tool, it doesn't have a T-handle spot on the end. I always end up mashing the palm of my hand and pinching some skin... Should I attempt to drill a hole through the side of it to stick a handle for the required pushing/turning motion required to re-install the valve? It seems like the valve spring is excessively stiff when I try to reinstall the valve. I don't know much about matching up the correct springs, but I have yet to get this thing working!
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Brass is good. Its kinda like a drug, once you have it once, you cant stop.
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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First off, Palmer's does have valve retaining nuts. They have every sheridan part that I've heard of.

Putting the valve back in is tricky. You have to make sure the spring is sitting where it's supposed to be, and slipped over the cup seal in the correct fashion, not pushing right against the bottom of it but sitting on it's lip. You have to push down against the spring and start turning. The trick is making sure you're completely square with the threads. I highly recommend putting a hole through your valve tool to stick an allen key through. I have the tool from PPS that has the threads on one end for pulling the valve out, and it has the holes through it. Have a T-handle (like an allen key through a hole) will also help you get the tool aligned correctly in the hole. the key is to take your time with it. It shouldn't feel rough at all to do. It'll have some resistance because you're threading it while it's under pressure from the spring, but it shouldn't ever be hard to turn.
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Phantom, I was referring to the 'roughness' against my hand with pushing the spring down. The valve nut seemed to destroy itself quite easily though. I've been around tools, shops, and PB guns for a long time now, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I've just never worked with these before. Since the technology isn't particularly widespread anymore (minus Palmers), I lack experience with it, and thus, I think that's why I ran into problems.

Thanks for the advice, anywhere to get new Brass Valve Retaining Nuts?
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Sorry Jason, I didn't mean to sound condescending. I munged up a valve nut my first time doing it as well . Palmer's is the only place I know of to order the valve nuts new. Scarecrow might have some around, but I haven't seen or heard much from him lately.
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You may have put the pringle nut in before you put the valve guts in.... the nut can catch on that and go in wrong.

Pringle nut (sock mounting nut) goes in after the valve guts and before the hammer.

As to turning the valve tool easier.... I use an adjustable open ended wrench and a leather work glove. Put the gun in the vice with a rag around it so you don't mar the gun, put the valve tool in the wrench just like you turn a lag bolt..... put the tool in the gun and push on the tool with your gloved hand while turning with the wrench. So long as the threads are lined up you will be in good shape.

E
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