Sheridan Valve Assembly and Other Tech Links
There are 2 types of valve assemblies used in the brass sheridan paintball guns. "Cartridge" valves and the older non-cartridge valves. The easiest way to identify your valve type is with the information stamped on the gun. "PA Series" guns use the cartridge valve and "P Series" guns use the old style / non-cartridge valve. Some early sheridans are unmarked but should also use the old style / non cartridge valve. If you're unsure, feel free to ask.
Old Style / Non-Cartridge Valve Assembly Pics
If you have this style valve, you will need a valve tool to remove it. See links at the bottom for DIY valve tools / dealers.
Also, there is a lead seal between the valve guide and the valve nut. It doesn't do much and does not need to be put back in the gun. Most people just throw it away.
Cartridge Valve Assembly Pics
That's not a stock sheridan valve spring so don't expect yours to look like that.
Also, a side note is that prior to taking the valve apart I'd suggest scribing a line down it or using a sharpie to mark it so you know it's aligned properly when you put it back together.
Other Tech Info / Links
Sheridan Recognition Guide:
VM68.com: Sheridan Recognition Guide
Some Disassembly Scans
You can look up pictures / details scans / manuals on Vintage Rex
VintageRex.com | PMI - Sheridan
Some manuals are also available in the MCB manuals
MCB's Paintball Library - Paintball Gun Manuals sorted by Manufacturer
Thread with links to archives of PGPOG
Sheridan CAD / part Drawings
Performance Tuning Thread
Valve tool, PPS/Crosman/Sheridan [SHER059] - $19.00 : Palmers Pursuit Shop, Where Custom Still Means Something
DIY Valve Tools
How to: make a sheridan valve tool - Special Ops Paintball
Measurements - http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ml#post1345744
Wood Stock Refinishing Thread
Thank You Sir!
Thanks! Been looking for pictures of that pulled apart.
Now, between picture 2 & 3 to get the pierce rod out... how do you unscrew that piece?
I carefully filed some flats on mine to be able to use an open-ended wrench...
When assembled are the holes supposed to be at a 90* angle with each other it at a 180*
180. That alignment is pretty critical. The threaded hole for the front grip frame screw should be on the "bottom" while the valve output hole needs to be on the "top".
You do bring up a good point as well. While they should be in the right spot when the valve is tightened down it might be a good idea to put some alignment marks on the valve pieces before taking it apart. A line all the way down the valve would do the trick.
Ok MaD, what are the o-ring sizes?
Do my research for me. :)
I have two of them and when fully tightened there and 90s should I use blue loctite to make sure it doesn't spin and just leave it a quarter turn from fully tight
what do you mean by 90s, one hole is on top and one is on the side?
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