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Old 04-13-2007, 09:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation An Apology to all that I have pestered.

I just talked to one of the custom sheridan gurus, T. MacMurray, and he said that having a barrel over 12 inches long is a waste and having a custom cartridge valve is a waste of their time. "Can't be done," he said. "It would never work."

Now I understand WHY i've been getting snowed by all the custom workshops. No one wants to put the time into the barrrels and other items because they feel it's not practical.

In all honesty, I think I have something here. I've done the physics, and actual field tests. I even mentioned some of the design improvements, but still, no luck. I REALLY believe that I can build a perfect "Mythological Beast" (the K) that shoots just as well as the KP3 on CO2. To do this, I need a custom cartridge valve with a resevoir for a sheridan made and I need Valve tubing and Barrel stock.

And I am very sorry for being a pest.

Warmly,
Smiley
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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In my experience, the folks at Mac-1 are more surly then they ought to be, especially Tim.

Keep dreaming, baby. If everyone believed the "experts" and "physisists" then bumblebees wouldn't fly and there would be no such thing as a "5-hour erection".

Keep reaching for the stars!

D.
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I still don't get that.
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure that Mac-1 finished with paintball a long time ago. No surprise there.
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Try giving Matt at Madd Customs a buzz, he might do it.
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i also have a kp long project in the works, probably going to palmers for the tubing (as soon as i can afford to :-) ) but instead of a cartridge valve, i plan to remove an oldstyle valve core from a donor pgp beyond restoration and solder it in, then use a cooper-t bulk fill adapter at the tip instead of a co2 nut, using the bottom tube as a tank...works well on my kp2, gets 100 shots per fill, just need to drain before refilling...
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Smiley- if you had told me what you were really wanting to do, I could have saved you a lot of fooling around. I sent you to Tim for the exact reason that
he stated.
As for recreating the 'mythical beast' I've aready done several versions. I was inspired by talking to Tim about getting some brass a few years ago. I didn't buy into his efficiency theory. There are 6, 20"+ rifles existing today because of that conversation. They work very well with a standard valve and a cartridge valve. These were either built on Sheridan Model Fs, Gs, or total buildups with new brass.
Ask Drum, Thad Constant, Gene Wood, or Robo how well they shoot.
Asking people to make all the parts for you to build several custom rifles isn't going to get you anywhere. If you want a rifle built, it can be done. If you want to build a rifle, or rifles, get some brass and do the work.
BTW-extending the interior volume of a Sheridan cartridge valve won't increase efficiency at all. Opening up the gas passages will.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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BTW-extending the interior volume of a Sheridan cartridge valve won't increase efficiency at all. Opening up the gas passages will.
On that note....Does thoust know of a way to open up the gas transfer hole a tiny bit to make a Turbo Valve actually do something?

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- Has one, but it was going into a CA gun, so efficiency isn't a big deal....
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ask Drum, Thad Constant, Gene Wood, or Robo how well they shoot.



Not mythical, and surely not a "beast"... more like a celestial princess of paintballin' prowess.

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I still don't get that.
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On that note....Does thoust know of a way to open up the gas transfer hole a tiny bit to make a Turbo Valve actually do something?

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- Has one, but it was going into a CA gun, so efficiency isn't a big deal....
Yes, you have two options; first is the hard way: build the gun that way from the start (un-solder and rebuild properly), second is the Palmer way: Drill in from the bottom of the valve, re-solder the transfer tube from the side, and tap a set screw into the hole to plug it back up.

I am working on a micro stroker conversion with a 4 inch barrel and opened up the transfer hole to 1/4", I am not having any problems getting up to bark braking velocities with it.
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Old 04-16-2007, 07:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes, you have two options; first is the hard way: build the gun that way from the start (un-solder and rebuild properly), second is the Palmer way: Drill in from the bottom of the valve, re-solder the transfer tube from the side, and tap a set screw into the hole to plug it back up.

I am working on a micro stroker conversion with a 4 inch barrel and opened up the transfer hole to 1/4", I am not having any problems getting up to bark braking velocities with it.
I was kinda thinking that. Yeah, complete resolder would be a big pain....I might try drilling it....I wonder if I could solder a trimmed copper rivet in the hole, and then file the head down to fit the grip frame....Hmmm....Got some new ideas now...

Catchya on the Flip Side.....

Emerald Wolf -- I wish there was a source for those Nelspot 707 middle pieces...Gonna have to talk Rainman into making some out of brass....
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