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Old 05-22-2011, 01:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have modded a cartridge valve with good results on both a pgp2 and a p68. Using a drill press, open the output hole to a 15/64" and drill a hole through the bottom of the marker centered on the "transfer hole"( the hole between the two tubes) the same size then deburr. You may have a hole peek through to the outside between the tubes and will need to plug it with solder, clear epoxy etc. you will increase consistency and efficiency.
So let me get this straight. drill a 15/64th hole through the bottom of the body to meet up with and enlarge the the air passage, the new size may cause a hole to form on the outside seam (in which case fill the hole) ....but do I need to fill the hole that I made in the bottom of the body?


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.... and lighter? why?


here's my way of thinking (correct me if I'm wrong)

lighter valve spring + lighter hammer + adjustable hammer spring tension via an RVA = better pump stroke and hopefully efficiency.....right?...or am I missing something?
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Old 05-22-2011, 02:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hammers are generally lightened to reduce hammer bounce=less wasted gas per shot.
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Sheridan Misc FS: Grips, bodies
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So let me get this straight. drill a 15/64th hole through the bottom of the body to meet up with and enlarge the the air passage, the new size may cause a hole to form on the outside seam (in which case fill the hole) ....but do I need to fill the hole that I made in the bottom of the body?
I didn't fill the hole on the bottom, it gets covered by the grip frame. On a non-cartridge valve you would use that hole to align the valve guide, the same as an autococker or spyder valve. Everything else is exactly what I have done, you also need to to drill the valve exhaust out and make sure everything is lined up when you re assemble. I cannot guarantee you will have positive results with this, but this is exactly what every valve tune entails, and it worked great for me especially with consistency.

I chose 15/64" so I wouldn't have to patch very much(a pin hole maybe) on the exterior of the marker. Palmers and others will build up some solder on the exterior of the marker and then drill a 1/4" hole. If you unsolder the tubes you can put an insert between the two tubes.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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alright thanks.



anybody have ideas on what grade steel I should use on a new hammer tho?
a guy at work suggested S7 tool steel, but I thought that would be a bit too extreme....what do you guys think?
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't know much about different steel types, but certainly stainless, sheridan used hardened steel. You want something that isn't too hard to work on, doesn't rust/keeps a polish, and can take hitting a steel pin a few thousand times. Modern pellet guns use a grub screw that can be adjusted so I doubt it needs to be super tough.

I would be interested in what you come up with, if you want to, pm me maybe we can bounce some ideas around. I've got some ideas that should at least help the pump stroke.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think what I am thinking of is schedule 8 hardened stainless steel.
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