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Old 10-16-2011, 12:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I just picked up an absoulutely MINT PGP...

However, I have NO Idea how to work or install any of the rather cool mods I've seen and been reading about for the last couple of hours on this site.

I am an absolutely wet behind the ears right out of the back side pgp owner. I would like to make this my stock class marker, and I'm honestly not sure where to start or who to talk to about getting work done on it. I've got a small budget set aside for it to get it into competing status, $75 or so.

What should I do first, and what can I do first?

This gun was a steal, I do mean steal. I paid $30.



The NIB Line SI promaster came with it for a different price, but that puppy's up for sale, despite the fact I'm an ICD fan boy.
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Sheridan PGP ICD Promaster, Armotech Zeus, Halo 2,Endocradle ,AA 68/45, Lucky 14'', CP ASA
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a couple guys on here that have made the back cap into Rear Velocity Adjusters (important so it doesn't depend so much on temperature), and I once contacted a fellow about an insta-pierce (as you have to fire once just to pierce the CO2, I opted out though). I'd recommend a speed changer for the CO2 but frankly this thing is so mint I'm not sure I'd do anything...I even left the stock spring in mine between the ball bearings (Despite a rough pump stroke) just so I could fire it like a pistol without the bolt jumping back on me.
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Problem is our local field has a speed of 280, so I do actually have to have some sort of velocity adjuster.
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Sheridan PGP ICD Promaster, Armotech Zeus, Halo 2,Endocradle ,AA 68/45, Lucky 14'', CP ASA
"Originally posted by nerdcore: Yelo, you must be all crotch... with arms & legs. For the ladies..."
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My best advice

-Find a RVA
-Tear it down and make sure it's clean on the inside
-Go and play

$30 is a great price. There's no sense in going overboard with upgrades and mods on a PGP unless you truly want to milk out the efficiency.

Do a search in the sheridan section and numerous threads will be at your disposal.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Agree - but note you need a sheridan valve tool to open that part...it's probably fine though. Just put a drop of oil or two on tip of a 12ie, put oil on the bolt o-ring, maybe pull of the back cap and put oil on the hammer...RVA is a good idea. Can't find it atm, but someone on here made brass RVAs (mmmmmm).

I bought a tap set and did my own with "some" success - didn't come out quite straight but works.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if you do have a budget, head over to the BST section, or look up palmers - 75 bucks should get you a couple of upgrades, though a mint pgp like that is a rare gem in it's own right.

Basically, there are 4 upgrades to be done to the pre 2k pgp (did a little research when i bought mine last month):
- bolt: speed demon or cooper t - it has a different detent system - in the stock bolt, you have the detent balls (that keep the bolt from moving back accidentally) under spring pressure. In the new bolt, they are held in place by a rod, and the first thing a pump stroke does, is pull the rod out, allowing the ball bearings to collapse inside and making for a much smoother pump stroke.

- rva - basically this is just a back cap with a screw that allows you to increase/decrease spring pressure, as a substitute for adding/removing shims

- quick changer: the stock cap takes a long time to unscrew - the quick changer is basically a small tube, that threads into the stock threads, and has it's own threading that only takes two turns to unscrew - comes with a longer plug that will be easier to operate.

feed gate - the original magazine cap takes a twist and pull to get the magazine open, and unless it is tied down with a piece of string, you'll lose it at some point. The feed gate works like any modern stock class gun - jam the tube in and the paintballs go in, but don't roll out the back.

If you have never handled a pgp before, check out Gramps' video here:
PGP Maintenence from 1987 paintball video - YouTube


another thing, commonly done to pgps is polishing - just elbow grease to get the paint off and get the brass to show.

Efficiency-wise, the older valve is said to be more efficient - can get upwards of 30 shots no problem.
The pgp is also quite accurate (surprisingly so, given a 6.5'' barrel), and very compact, but still heavier than alu guns like the phantom/grey gjost, etc. Not much heavier, but that's to be expected - brass is hefty.
One thing i'd advise you to get, is a holster - on some fields, having both hands free to climb can be VERY advantageous.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Stripping and polishing a sheridan in that good of shape may get you lynched.
Just a friendly warning.
Pat.
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Old 10-16-2011, 02:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I really do appreciate all the info. I'll be sure to take care of it. I guess I'll just do an RVA then, so I can actually use it on the field.
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Sheridan PGP ICD Promaster, Armotech Zeus, Halo 2,Endocradle ,AA 68/45, Lucky 14'', CP ASA
"Originally posted by nerdcore: Yelo, you must be all crotch... with arms & legs. For the ladies..."
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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actually - i used to have a sterling without any kind of rva - set that for ~270, and never needed to adjust again - the rva will simply make it more comfortable for you.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the video. Appreciated! Now I remember why I loved MCB. I might not even put in the RVA, I may just lube it and convince them to let me play with it as where it's set at.
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Sheridan PGP ICD Promaster, Armotech Zeus, Halo 2,Endocradle ,AA 68/45, Lucky 14'', CP ASA
"Originally posted by nerdcore: Yelo, you must be all crotch... with arms & legs. For the ladies..."
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