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Old 12-13-2011, 05:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yeah, i'm probably leaning toward something non-porous because i plan on taking her out in the woods. Is there an oil that won't darken the wood too much? I'd like to try and keep most of the color of the stain/dye job. Cause of that i was almost thinking a clear satin poly might be the best idea, but like i said, i'm not an expert.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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For the hardwood i've been working with I'm using a rub on poly for the finish, 3-4 coats followed by Butchers Wax. Gives it a very strong, very durable finish that looks really nice too.

With the Butchers wax upkeep is a breeze too. If you muss it up just reapply, buff and you're good to go!
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Probably should mention, oil finishes are a bit of a misnomer. What they are is oils mixed with a polymerising agent (or an oil that naturally has one occurring in it). They don’t dry in the sense that the more familiar polyurethanes will dry; instead it’s more of a chemical reaction than primarily the evaporation of solvents

I Probably should have been a little clearer- don’t just go out and buy linseed or Tung oil and wipe it on, they need to be mixed with a polymerising agent. Danish Oil is a premixed oil, containing usually boiled linseed oil, turpentine and a polymerising agent (varies depending on the manufacturer)
Once dry, you shouldn’t have any bleed through from the dye, especially if you left it to cure off.

Considering the quantity of Danish oil I use and its price, I cheat and make my own, equal parts pale linseed oil, turpentine and gloss polyurethane. It’s not truly an oil finish, but it does look good


mineral oils (like parafin wax, butchers block oil/wax) don't dry, they're not a suitable finish for stained timber or outdoor use, its a pity, because they can look amazing.

EDIT:
This is a link we give our senior students befire they start on their major project, hope it sheds some light:
http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm
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Last edited by ant; 12-14-2011 at 01:39 AM. Reason: brain fart
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There's also a number of products that dry clear like you desire, however, most of them are commercial grade finishes and very tricky to apply and achieve a passable finish, let alone a spectacular one. Also, some are fairly toxic.

Another concern...and this may not apply at all. The vast majority of my wood working experiance is with Australian hard woods which on the whole are fabulous timbers to work with, however a number of species are notoriously resinous or oily which can lead to extremely poor results with polyurethanes and expoxy finishes. So, If you can find out what timber was used for the stock, pop on to a US wood workers forum and look around for any info on finishing techniques.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Stripping...

Use a good chemical paint stripper like Lepage Poly Super Strippa. (nasty but awesome - don't get any on/in you... you'll feel it burning) It won't harm the wood but no finish will survive it. You won't need to sand afterwards unless the underlying wood had "issues" to begin with.

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I used to have (20 30 years ago) an illness for Tiger Stripe Oak antiques and have stripped and refinished quite a few pieces. Every refinish project I did (stripping) required some sanding/steal wooling due to grain raising of the wood from the stripping. Is there something about the mentioned stripper that dose not raise the grain?
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Yeah, I've always sanded or scraped back after stripping a finnish off-always seems to need it. Not always a lot required, but never what I would consider ready to finish. But then again, I'm super fussy
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
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While we are on the subject what's the best method of sandinf from say map torch burn to a polishing to a high polish
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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While we are on the subject what's the best method of sandinf from say map torch burn to a polishing to a high polish
I'm going to assume you mean polishing brass after its been soldered.

Lightly sand using progressively finer grits of wet/dry and paper till you've got an even scratch pattern then either 000 followed by 0000 steel wool, then metal polish and a rag or a soft mop on a buffing machine. Just be careful if using the buffing wheel, if it grabs, its a high probability your marker is a gonner.

Thats not the only way, there's many opinions on how to do it, thats just my way.

A brass brush is also usefull for removing any flux residue and carbon prior to sanding
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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It's not rocket science but wood finishes are always a good read. Sadly, the market has become somewhat deceptive especially in the area of fine oil finishes. Tung oil for example is a pretty long term process. What you see on most shelves labeled as a "Tung Oil Finish" may not have any tung oil in it at all. I've used a few and they do make a nice finish (and take a whole lot less time than a true tung oil) but in most cases it's just a watered down varnish.

Here's some pretty detailed info on the subject.
Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil - is there a difference
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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