Stock refinish questions.
1) What chemical stripper should i use? is acetone followed by bleaching a good idea?
2) Should I dye the wood first? or combine dye with the poly coat?
3) Should I use indoor or outdoor poly coat?
3) How many coats?
4) Is it OK to use satin finish? Or do I really want to stick w/ semi-gloss or gloss?
Thanks a bunch guys!
Really, it depends on what the existing finish is. If its an oil finish(danish, tung etc) wipe it with turps and sand.
For polyurethane I'd go a mild paint stripper, scrape the resulting gunk off and sand.if its a particularly old finish, scraping will remove it in quick order
If you want to try something that will REALLY bring out any figure in the timber, use a cabinet scraper, you can pick them up online from Lee Vally, Veritas and Rockler. There's a lot of resources online that show you how to sharpen and use them. Believe me, sanded finish does't hold a candle to a scraped or planed finish.
Never mix your finish and dye, it'll interfere with the drying or the polymerization of your chosen finish. Dye first and give it a good 24 hours before applying your finish.
There is a butt load of finishes available, my personal favorite is danish oil, its stunning looking its durable, next to impossible to stuff up and retouching is easy- downside, you need to apply multiple coats, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year thereafter. Every rifle stock I own and nearly every piece of furniture I've ever made is finished in danish oil. It can be as glossy, satin or as matte as you like depending on how much buffing you do between coats
That said, modern polyurethanes are very durable, relitively easy to apply, just don't skimp on the brush you use and clean it very thoroughly after use. Generally, I'll thin the first coat 50/50 with the appropriate solvent (either turps or water depending on what type) to allow the finish to soak in. Two or three coats should suffice.
How would I know what finish is on the stock? (I'm not a woodworking guy, this will be my first attempt.)
Do you happen to know what kinda of finish was used by Sheridan on KP-3s?
Can't help you there, but as a guess, it say it would be polyurethane, its the bog standard commercial finish for timber. You'll know if its an oil finish as it won't have built up on the timber very thick.
Good luck with it, I'm hanging out to see how it turns out
Strip it and then sand. Not sure of the original finish, nothing like tung or danish though. I agree with ant about the scrapping, however it would be tough for you to do on a stock if you have no experience. Remember to continue to use finer grits as you go until you get where you want to get to. good luck.
Its is tricky I agree, but the amount you take off is so tiny, that if you do stuff up, its an easy fix
I just refinished my stock with birtchwood casey tru-oil and then some gun stock wax. after buffing with fine steel wool it gives a smooth matte finish. Another option than poly but I think it is a bit more work.
Oil and wax or a tung oil finish are my favorites.
Oil(mineral) and wax finishes need to be cleaned immediately after playing since it is still porous. But I like how to shin up the stock all you do is apply oil, and occasionally rewax.
I don't know whether you can dye and then oil/wax the stock or even use danish/tung oil. Ant sounds like he would know.
I am pretty sure you can stain and then oil/wax it.
You will not go very wrong with either, both are pretty widely accepted finishes for stocks.
if you have the money, maybe you could buy some wood and both finishes, and test out the finishes.
|All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:06 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO
© MCB Network LLC