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Old 01-28-2012, 11:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tuning my KP3 for usable field velocity.

So, had my KP3 out last weekend for play...


This one. Ain't she pretty.

Had some issues getting a happy field velocity. The paint was a good size, so it was at least usable for a game or two, but it needs some work.

First issue, when shooting gas CO2 out of the old 10 oz, it was dong 220 fps. Barely playable.

Second issue, when sucking liquid CO2, it was up to 300 fps, occasionally spiking hot. Note the field limit at most of the fields around here is 280.

So I need to alter the setup a bit to achieve a nice 260-280 playable range.

Option A, anti-siphon the tank, re-spring to bring up the velocity.

Option B, siphon the tank, re-spring to lower the velocity. I got no problem with blowing snow.

Option C (or A-2 if you will), anti-siphon, throw my old RG1 reg inline with the tank, sweet spot, re-spring as necessary.

Any options I'm forgetting?
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I got a few, including a female that would do the job nicely, but it's currently busy regulating my AT-85. The RG1 isn't in use at the moment and would be "period appropriate" as a bonus.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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That's true it wouldn't disrupt the setup as is.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I recently did option B to my p-68AT. It worked awesome. It is now shooting a very consistent 281 regardless of the temperature. It was crazy cheap to. Under $15 for the siphon and the nylon washers to shim the trimmed main spring. Also because the main spring has to be trimmed with this option, you get a smoother pump stroke.

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Old 01-29-2012, 05:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you're running CA, make sure you've got a CA valve stem, ie one without the piercing pin. They reduce the travel on the valve, so it's best to have the non-piercing stem with a gun like that.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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BigMatt will also drill and tap your rear plug for a RVA for a reasonable price.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russc View Post
If you're running CA, make sure you've got a CA valve stem, ie one without the piercing pin. They reduce the travel on the valve, so it's best to have the non-piercing stem with a gun like that.
I ran into that issue when I was trying to make the thing work with some really tiny paint. Had the main spring shimmed so much the piercing pin was jamming into the CA adapter and getting stuck. I ended up drilling the tip of the CA adapter a bit more open so the pierce pin can't bottom out.

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BigMatt will also drill and tap your rear plug for a RVA for a reasonable price.
Well, I could do that myself.

Though I'd prefer to keep the thing stock if possible and try to achieve playable velocity just through gas setup.

Really it's down to gas vs. liquid, and if gas then regulated vs. un-regulated.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I ran into that issue when I was trying to make the thing work with some really tiny paint. Had the main spring shimmed so much the piercing pin was jamming into the CA adapter and getting stuck. I ended up drilling the tip of the CA adapter a bit more open so the pierce pin can't bottom out.
I really recommend just removing everything past the cupseal, leaving just enough for the valve spring to seat on. In CA guns, the max valve travel is something like double what you can achieve with the 12 gram pierce pin in there. It's very very counterproductive to leave it in a KP3. It isn't even the pin itself that is the problem - it's the spring guide shoulder that guides the pin. It hits the back of the chamber plug.
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