| ||Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
|07-30-2006, 03:55 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Restoring a Pirahna, have some questions
I remebered that I had an old Pirahna lying somewhere and dug it out. It was leaking out the barrell the last time I used it and I assume it still does. I was happy to find out that my cocker valvetool would fit so I was able to take the valve out. I couldnt see any damage, but it struck me that it had no o-rings, shouldnt it? It looks so from the parts diagram I saw some threads down. But it hasnt always leaked so Im not sure.
Second; will a cocker valve pin work? Its the same lenght and seemed to fit just as well. Im asking because if I have to replace the original pin I wont have to get a new one as I have several cocker pins laying here.
Third; the last time I took it apart I tried to be smart and re-attached the gripframe screws to the body so I wouldnt loose'em. Now I cant get the front one out because the plugg its screwed into just turns around with the screw. Any tips on how to get it out?
Fourth; is it hard to get a cocker frame to work on it? I have a bunch of them as well, it would have been so cool to have a Pirahna pump with a Jackal 90* frame
Any help that can get this oldie but goodie work again will be greatly appriciated. Im probably never going to play with it, since no one plays with pumps here in Norway anymore, but you never know.
|07-30-2006, 07:00 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Retired from paintball
Never seen a color fade on a Piranha, unless it was Sheridan black to brassy goodness.
1. The bolt should have 2 o-rings on it that fit pretty tightly (been a while since I pulled my bolt out). **EDIT** just re-read your post and saw you were asking about o-rings on the valve, my bad. No.
2. I have no idea if a Cocker pin would work. Give it a try!
3. No idea.
4. I believe they have to be slightly milled/dremeled to fit the contour of the body, unless you get a grip adapter that some of the good folks here have made.
Have you cleaned everything nicely? Put some o-rings on the bolt in the grooves, lightly oil the parts as you put them back in, and add some air/CO2. May just have been "dry as a popcorn fart" as Glenn Palmer would say.
CPPA #1145 / PPIG #496 / LPPC #103 / POG #1047 / Team Rogue Cell #7
PJ's Gallery on MCB
Feedback on MCB
Last edited by PJ; 07-30-2006 at 11:38 PM.
|07-30-2006, 10:29 PM||#5 (permalink)|
I got a question to...how the heck do you take a sheridan valve out. Sorry to jump on the thread, i just never have done it and have no idea how. Someone PM me dont post on here, because i will probably forget i posted.
|07-30-2006, 11:01 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lynn, Ma
The FAQ section on the PGPOG is quite helpful and will answer all your questions. http://pgpog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.c...num=1115694817
|07-30-2006, 11:29 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Biggy, you need a special valve tool to take it out.
Jan, let me recommend you try something that worked for me recently. My cupseal was completely mangled, so what I did was hold the valve pin with pliers over a gas stove so as to heat it up. Don't put the seal directly in the flame, as it will likely just burn. It will take a little while, but you will notice that the seal face becomes softer and more transparent. Try not to let it spill out of the seal groove, but if it does, you can just push it back with a sharp object. Once the seal is slightly melted, hold the valve pin so that the seal faces up and drop the valve body onto it lightly. Don't press too hard, as the seal will just mush out around it. This resets a sealing shape on the seal if done correctly.
Give it a try, you don't have much to lose if it's leaking anyways.
And for your other questions:
The valves I've seen have never had o-rings on them. Cocker valves do, but no Sheridan valve of mine has. I believe the threading is fine enough so that it isn't neccessary.
To remove the screw, try putting downward pressure on the nut while screwing it out. You can resolder it if you're comfortable with doing so.
It's very possible to put cocker frames on Sheridans. I wouldn't want to mill down a Jackal frame, though, so I'd suggest putting a WTB ad on here for an adapter plate. Rainman and some others here supply them.
|07-31-2006, 02:27 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Biggy; as I said I used my cocker valve tool, it did fit perfectly even thoug the Sheridan nut is squared and the cocker one is a hex. just mentioning it because cocker tools are easier to get if you dont allready have one.
Thanks for all the answers so far, it seem like getting the front screw out will be the only problerm. As for the colors, I just wanted to test out a three fade scheme with my airbrush. It didnt look to bad really, the real problem is to make it stay on, acrylics designed for plastic modelling isnt excactly sturdy.
|07-31-2006, 09:13 PM||#9 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Boston Massachusetts
The nut on my PGP was rotating just as yours is, If you have the skills/materials to work a torch you can solder the nut to the gun, remove the screw and file off the excess solder so the frame will fit again. It worked well for me, and it will not damage the black if you do it properly/quick enough. I don't have any idea how the acrylic paint will stand up to it, but you could just re-paint it.
My PGP has two o-rings in the valve, they do not come out with the valve, but instead when you nock out the pierce pin plate on the front. Chances are you wont need to pull them but if you do any hot work they need to come out, also if the cup seal does not solve your problem then the back o-ring may be your culprit.
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|