Paintball

[WALZ]

Here is how I align the valve when doing the one hole mod. It is not a good pic but you can see where I cut a slot in the front of the valve and the screwdriver I converted to a pickle fork. You simply tighten valve retaining nut about 3/4-7/8 tight and align hole with pickle fork inserted in slots. Snug firm, works every time. I color the end of the valve so I can see where alignment should be.


Attachment 30396

[snaparen]

Never thought of that way. I tried useing a old pump rod cut short to try to peg the hole from in the barrel while I tightened the nut. I needed another set of hands to do it.

[wrongbloke]

Originally Posted by WALZ

Here is how I align the valve when doing the one hole mod. It is not a good pic but you can see where I cut a slot in the front of the valve and the screwdriver I converted to a pickle fork. You simply tighten valve retaining nut about 3/4-7/8 tight and align hole with pickle fork inserted in slots. Snug firm, works every time. I color the end of the valve so I can see where alignment should be.


Attachment 30396

Now that is clever

[Boone]

Thanks for the tip WALZ.

I went shopping for solder and stuff the other day. What precautions do you guys use for lead? I work in my basement, my pets go down there, and I don't want to drag lead into my house. I was planning on cleaning up what will undoubtedly be messy joints with a brush, file or sandpaper so I don't want a ton of lead dust everywhere.

Ruling out lead it looks like I have two options: Tin (melts at <300F, ruling that out because I would like to get this project Cerakoted when I'm done) or Silver Bearing (Melts at 450F-ish, which seems like a difficult temperature to maintain for a beginner?) I am working with a propane torch and have practiced soldering some scraps with lead based solder, but I don't plan on working with those pieces.

Any thoughts, or should I just go with the silver bearing solder and quit being a wimp?