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Old 02-23-2012, 09:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Enlarging transfer port

Hey guys, I read through this thread: non-PPS Performance tuning and searched a bit, but I was unable to find what I'm looking for.

I have a PG in pieces that I'm doing a side-tube mod on, and while I've got it all apart I am considering enlarging the transfer port. I have access to 380ACP and .22LR brass right now. Can anyone post pictures or a process for enlarging the valve holes and transfer port? Am I basically using the fired brass to create a tube between the top and bottom tubes? And how large can I make the hole when I have a solid bolt (one without a transfer port?)

Thanks!

Edited to add: I have (obviously) a torch, as well as a drill press, files and basic tools but no mill or lathe.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've only done it with the tubes already soldered together... But I can adjust the process a little bit.

You take your extra brass. Fishmouth it to match your top tube.

Solder your fishmouthed tube to the top tube.

Redrill your ports on both the bottom and top tubes.

Carefully use your dremel and fishmouth the transfer tube so that it matches the bottom tube, and will allow for no spacing between the tubes.

When you're comfortable that there aren't any big gaps, solder the bottom back on.


You can go as big as you want on the hole... As long as the ball won't fall into the transfer port. Maybe .25?
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I actually just finished doing this on my non-cart pgp. Really brought up the fps for me

As for the hole size, there is no point going bigger than a quarter inch front to back because then your going wider than the valve ports can go.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I see where russc enlarged his in his KP to 3/16" in another thread, but that seemed pretty close to what the hole already is. I think I'll go with 1/4" and see how that goes without using a tube between the bottom tube and barrel tube.

Did you drill out the holes in the valve, fill anything with JB weld to devolumize, or do any other mods?

I set the tubes aside for now to brainstorm. I used my time in the basement the other day to craft a rear sight out of a brass fitting. I will do a front sight too. Very excited to get more done on this project, and I talked to GA Airsmithing about getting it cerakoted...
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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lets see pictures of the sight. I have been thinking of ways to make some custom ones and would like to see what you came up with.

Yes you will want at least one hole in the valve to be the same size as the transfer port. You can block the other holes with set screws or use epoxy.

I have done this to a pgp Palmer's style, where I added solder to the sides of the tubes then drilled from the bottom of the valve tube up. I epoxied my valve body to only have one hole. I use 1/4 hole all the way through. Aligning the valve up to the transfer port was a bit of a paint in the arss. I would like to know how others aligned theirs up. The problem I have is I did not have a dyna valve to put in it so I am still not getting the full potential out of it yet, and I still have to try to align it again to put a dyna valve in it.
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll snag a picture of the sight before I leave tonight if I remember. It's still sort of rough, but it fits the tube pretty well. I am not going to file the notch until I get it on the gun and make sure it's lined up correctly, since there is no adjustment and I don't want to have to de-solder it to get it right. I wanted it to look like the novak sights below, but there wasn't enough material on the piece to do it that way.



I think I remember reading that you tap the bottom of the valve tube for a set screw, which is used to align the valve. I wanted to avoid doing that but I guess it's not that much more work.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here are the pics...next to the piece from which I cut it.

I scratched up my vise a little bit...I'll be securing some safety razor blades to the top of the vise next time I do any filing so that I keep it even but don't screw up the relatively flat surface of the vise.

Still needs some work but I think it'll look nice with a simple brass blade front sight.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I like that alot, what did it start life as?

On the whole on the bottom of the valve is how palmers does align the vavle, but I did the epoxy fill of the whole valve but one hole. I know others have done this(stuffy, ironchef, walz) I am just wondering how they match up the holes while they are screwing in the valve nut.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks! It took about 45 minutes of cutting and filing. My grandpa left a lot of miscellaneous tools, fittings, and parts in the basement of his condo where I now live. It was a 1.5" OD ring threaded on the inside...some kind of retaining nut I think. It looked like brass when I scratched it, was relatively soft, so I went to town.

Oh, I see. You could possibly take a piece of metal with a 90 degree bend at the end, slightly less than 1/4" DIA, and slip it in the barrel tube and through the transfer port into the valve to keep it aligned. However, I remember someone posting that they did not have a problem keeping it aligned. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there, as I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet.

Reading the research that russc, Apoc_101 and others have done on 12 gram efficiency I'm not sure if devolumizing the valve/other chambers is really as effective as once thought. I'm not trying to turn this into an efficiency machine, my R7 will fill that role. I do want it to shoot well, though.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I like that alot, what did it start life as?

On the whole on the bottom of the valve is how palmers does align the vavle, but I did the epoxy fill of the whole valve but one hole. I know others have done this(stuffy, ironchef, walz) I am just wondering how they match up the holes while they are screwing in the valve nut.
Palmers does something clever where they drill a hole into the bottom tube and thread it to install a cocker-like valve retention screw. That way you insert the valve loose, tighten down the valve retention screw, then insert the valve nut that keeps it from sliding back. That way you are assured that the open transfer port in the valve is oriented correctly with the transfer port between the top and bottom tubes.
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