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Old 06-30-2012, 01:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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KP2 Disassembly and valve repair notes

Hey guys this is more or less for myself and anyone else who has a kp series sheridan rifle. I'm compiling the pics and thoughts while I was working on my kp today. Hope it helps, because I scratched my head at one point even after using the MCB database and stickies for help.

Here we go:

Going to be pulling this one apart because after I got it off ebay, my first shot through it destroyed the co2 face seal.

Items shown:
  • PPS valve tool
  • PPS PGP fast change
  • PPS dyna valve kit for 12 grams

Ok so first off start by removing the tubes from the stock like so

Keep in mind that the front most metal pin, in this case the one on the right, will need to be removed for servicing the rifle

After a bit of wiggle-work it should come undone. For those with shims or an RVA that has the spring to be compressed greater than stock, be careful when pulling out the trigger group. Losing and eye or a spring isn't any fun. Hammer should slide right out just fine.

The curvy head of the quick screw was a little wonky and caused problems because it moved around a bit.

^^^Again just showing you that it can be removed, but does not need to be.

As Good a time as any to get the exploded view for reference.

The valve removal tool is pretty self explanatory by looking at what shapes should fit into where. If you've done a cocker valve (which is still really a sheridan style valve) then this is cake. Sorry no pics of valve tool going in. My case was special and was slightly overtightened. So I wrapped a couple socks around the tubes and took the kp to a table vice grip to hold it in place while I torqued out the valve nut.

Pics of the valve layout

Here's a look at why I ordered all of this, I destroyed my face seal

^^Again sadly no pic of the new seal going in, It's been said before, I'll say it again. It isn't rocket science. Pick out the old seal and press the new one in, I used an empty 12ie to help.

[Product placement LOL] Putting in the dyna valve is pretty straightforward as well.

Put the valve bits back together like shown a couple images above and for me, I found it easier to stack it onto the valve tool to line it up in the lower tube.

Stuck her back in and screw in till snug NOTE: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN It's not good for anyone.

Voila! Shown with fast change and new dyna valve and seal installed

Test fired shortly after and she's doing just fine, holds air and even shoots my lopsided month old nasty paint that's been lying around.


Just thought I'd share since I did get this off ebay. Seller told me it was a speed demon bolt. I found that hard to believe for some reason but went along with it, and while tearing it down today actually got a good look at it.

This is a genuine Cooper T kp bolt. Awesome. Strangely it looks like the red was all stripped off. There's still some red that can be found on it.

That's it. Hope it helps someone, because I know during maintenance time I gotta reference this again. I don't clean and strip as often as some of you.


-Donut SD
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Adding a video. Proof I can fix something myself lol :P
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Very nicely done. I Love KP2's!
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice write up.

That cooper t is just icing on the cake
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Swiftbear View Post
Very nicely done. I Love KP2's!
Thanks! Now I do too! I didn't know what to expect. I know I liked my pgp but this feels great in my stubby Filipino arms lol.

Originally Posted by senghing27 View Post
Nice write up.

That cooper t is just icing on the cake
For sure, stripped it down and looked at it. I said "ooh, score!" can't wait to actually use it on the field
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nice guide!
They did not make a Speed Demon bolt for KP2's, Only KP3's and they don't interchange.

Last edited by Smiley; 09-08-2012 at 12:22 AM.
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