Problems...

rob373 · 08-31-2007, 08:55 PM

Hey guys, first post here. I recently picked up a PGP on Craigslist for $35. The guy said that it didnt work, so I figured that I would go from there. My first time trying to get it apart, and I notice that there is no mainspring. That is the first problem. Number 2 is that the valve assembly wont come out

It is the old style from what I can comprehend, so do I really need to get a valve tool?

russc · 08-31-2007, 08:56 PM

Does it hold air? You may just need to replace the mainspring...

rob373 · 08-31-2007, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russc

Does it hold air? You may just need to replace the mainspring...

Im not sure, he said he could only get like one shot out of it before the C02 ran out, and faulted a missing oring somewhere.

Anyone know where I can get a new mainspring?

netsurferdude2 · 08-31-2007, 10:06 PM

What stock Sheridans do is the first and second shot are a piercer shot. The spring hits the 12gram and pierces it. That is probably why is spills on after the first spot. You may need to replace some valve seals.

Sheridan parts:
Products

rob373 · 08-31-2007, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netsurferdude2

What stock Sheridans do is the first and second shot are a piercer shot. The spring hits the 12gram and pierces it. That is probably why is spills on after the first spot. You may need to replace some valve seals.

Sheridan parts:
Products

Okay, so I will need the valve tool then?
Will common orings fit whatever I need them too in the valve or do I have to buy specialty ones?

And any ideas on why it wont come out willingly, or should I force it out?

chplnstone · 09-02-2007, 04:25 PM

yes, if its an old style internal, you'll need a tool...old internals types have a nut in the back that recieves the rounded-square tool, if you look in the back after removing the hammer, you'll either see the old-style square or the cartridge valve flat face...cartrigde valve pushes out, no tool, old style core is soldered in, need a tool to gut it.

common o-rings will work in some places, but its usually easier just to get a seal kit, since you'll need the 12 gram face seal and cup seals anyway...

netsurferdude2's link there gets you to american paintball, great for parts including your mainspring and seal kit, but i dont know if they carry the tool...may have to go to palmers pursuit shop for that...

rob373 · 09-02-2007, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chplnstone

yes, if its an old style internal, you'll need a tool...old internals types have a nut in the back that recieves the rounded-square tool, if you look in the back after removing the hammer, you'll either see the old-style square or the cartridge valve flat face...cartrigde valve pushes out, no tool, old style core is soldered in, need a tool to gut it.

common o-rings will work in some places, but its usually easier just to get a seal kit, since you'll need the 12 gram face seal and cup seals anyway...

netsurferdude2's link there gets you to american paintball, great for parts including your mainspring and seal kit, but i dont know if they carry the tool...may have to go to palmers pursuit shop for that...

Okay, apparently the owner of my local pro shop used to work on the PGPs all the time, so he might have the tools and parts for it. Im probably going to see what he can do before I go and buy the tools. Thanks for all the help.

PS, so the valve wont come out if it is the old style by just pushing it out of the back of the tube? I would need the valve tool to get any of it out correct?

chplnstone · 09-03-2007, 12:38 AM

thats correct, the valve core is soldered in, the "outer shell" of the valve stays put, you use the tool to pull the nut out of the rear to access the valve, cup seal, spring, etc... if he's familliar with sheridan, it'll be a walk in the park, gut, clean, and re-install should take less than 20 minutes

rob373 · 09-03-2007, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chplnstone

thats correct, the valve core is soldered in, the "outer shell" of the valve stays put, you use the tool to pull the nut out of the rear to access the valve, cup seal, spring, etc... if he's familliar with sheridan, it'll be a walk in the park, gut, clean, and re-install should take less than 20 minutes

Okay, because the guide says that you can push the valve out of the back of the gun, so I was thinking that it was corroded in place lol.

chplnstone · 09-03-2007, 03:07 AM

after the nut and most of the internals are removed, a drive tool (or wood dowel) are used to drive the final part out, the face seal holder, usually wedged tightly in place :-)

08-31-2007, 08:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
russc Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC	Does it hold air? You may just need to replace the mainspring... __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters I will be a complete and total douchebag towards any player who is trying to pull a DMW.

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09-02-2007, 04:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
chplnstone bringing back the dead Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: pensacola, florida	yes, if its an old style internal, you'll need a tool...old internals types have a nut in the back that recieves the rounded-square tool, if you look in the back after removing the hammer, you'll either see the old-style square or the cartridge valve flat face...cartrigde valve pushes out, no tool, old style core is soldered in, need a tool to gut it. common o-rings will work in some places, but its usually easier just to get a seal kit, since you'll need the 12 gram face seal and cup seals anyway... netsurferdude2's link there gets you to american paintball, great for parts including your mainspring and seal kit, but i dont know if they carry the tool...may have to go to palmers pursuit shop for that...

09-03-2007, 12:38 AM	#8 (permalink)
chplnstone bringing back the dead Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: pensacola, florida	thats correct, the valve core is soldered in, the "outer shell" of the valve stays put, you use the tool to pull the nut out of the rear to access the valve, cup seal, spring, etc... if he's familliar with sheridan, it'll be a walk in the park, gut, clean, and re-install should take less than 20 minutes

09-03-2007, 03:07 AM	#10 (permalink)
chplnstone bringing back the dead Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: pensacola, florida	after the nut and most of the internals are removed, a drive tool (or wood dowel) are used to drive the final part out, the face seal holder, usually wedged tightly in place :-)