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Old 11-02-2012, 09:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks! took me WAY longer than it should've to realize that coking lug was spring loaded haha.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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They put it UNDER the bolt? That doesn't seem very convenient.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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They put it UNDER the bolt? That doesn't seem very convenient.
Well, the trigger group doesn't quite allow the standard RVA style does it now?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, the trigger group doesn't quite allow the standard RVA style does it now?
Can't you angle in from one side as easily as from the top?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Well that's where Craig told me to look for it (on the side I mean), so all I can think of is someone in the shop other than Craig did it? Either that or maybe it was already done before I sent it out? Seller didn't mention it, in fact he mentioned I'd probably have to respring it.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Can't you angle in from one side as easily as from the top?
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Well that's where Craig told me to look for it (on the side I mean), so all I can think of is someone in the shop other than Craig did it? Either that or maybe it was already done before I sent it out? Seller didn't mention it, in fact he mentioned I'd probably have to respring it.
It's possible, but things are wonky when you venture out of the box.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You can see the rva in the third picture under the bolt.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, the trigger group doesn't quite allow the standard RVA style does it now?
Hmmm, well it can, but takes more work. This is the more complex trigger group with the brass shoes and spring piston. The simpler version has the die cast trigger group body, the rounded, angled one with the side to side safety that seem to be more common.

The trigger group body, shown in the third picture, under the knurled pump linkage arm release knob, can be drilled and tapped through the back for a set screw velocity adjuster. This works best with a back end spring pin that the set screw pushes in or backs out creating or lessening tension on the spring. The trick to modding this trigger group with an RVA is that the trigger itself is of a different design than the aforementioned die cast trigger group body. That said, you have to remove the trigger and grind off part of it so that it doesn't pop up through the newly drilled hole, thus jamming into the spring and/or set screw. It might be possible to get around grinding down the trigger by drilling and tapping for a smaller set screw (which is what appears in your pics), unfortunately all I had at my disposal were 1/4 20 tools/hardware.

So, not that any of that is pertinent to the question, it looks like in your 3rd pic (hard to tell because it's blurrly) there is a set screw on the back face of the trigger group body, just above the safety latch. Screwing in or backing out this set screw should adjust your velocity.
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