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Old 12-13-2013, 07:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Poo Build: Removing Internal Sleeve

I have a Sheridan Piranha SB that's been molested.. badly.
Its former owner tried WELDING an elbow in the feedneck very ruggedly. He then tried welding the feedneck back because I assume the heat de-soldered it. Even the wooden grips got burnt in the process.


( Insert: Secret Project Poo-build description which will probably won't be finished by the deadline here )

So as you all can tell by the detailed description of my project: Removal of the inner Sleeve that holds the valve is required.
I heated it up thoroughly and tried pushing it out the back with a steel tube ( reason for this: the nutsert in the front would stop it ) No luck.

Any Ideas?
Thanks for reading
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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bob
If you are not using Mapp Gas propane (yellow bottle) that could be your issue.
Apply the heat to bottom of tube around valve area with Mapp Gas and I use a wood dowel but I guess steel rod is ok.
Wait until you see the solder melting and then tap out... (yea the back side).
Should slide out the backside no problem.
You will need to clean any solder residue in chamber also..

If it won't come out for you send her to me and I will pop her out of there for free.

Are you changing to cart valve for ease of rebuilding or something special..
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm using the blue bottle stuff ( what we have at work ) but I was still able too melt the solder. I'll set myself up better so I can tap it out.
How do you remove all the solder from the inside before re-assembly?

Thank you for the offer but I know your time can be better spent making beautiful works of art! This is my poo build off too so I think it's against the rules.

I'm rebuilding something special, neat idea I've never seen done before on a Sheridan.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You should not have much solder residue left after removing valve.
You can run some 400 grit emery on a dowel and hone any residue down pretty easy.
Just don't go overboard with it, just needs to be flat.
You can then run a cart valve in there or whatever valve set-up you have going on.

Just remember that if you do not enlarge the transfer ports and the bolt air port you will not see significant results.. I like to re-do the transfer ports to.250 id to .278 id.
Best of luck to ya.

Note: Mapp Gass makes it a lot faster and easier due to its higher heat output..
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help.

I'm going to enlarge the transfer port to either a 22 shell or something else if I can find a casing. I'm also going to change the side tap from 10-32 to 1/8 npt for gits and ****les. Other work will be done to it which required me to remove it in the first place.
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Success! Thanks WALZ!
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