A couple of questions
Hi guys, I recently acquired a PGP2K1 and have a couple of questions:
The bolt doesn't seem to be locking fully in place (only gets the first click), I've read that loosening the RVA cap will solve this (it was sitting completely flush when I received it) but I couldn't find anything on how to actually do that.
Is it the star-shaped hole that you would use (I'm assuming the inner allen key one is the velocity)? And if it is, does it require the sheridan valve tool to open?
EDIT: Just noticed you're supposed to do that via the rear grip frame screw - I'm a muppet sometimes. :P
The second question is something a bit more trivial, but I was just interested to know. For those people that have custom finishes to their PGP's; are hydrographics or anodized finishes possible on brass? And would they affect the barrel's performance (I'm unsure of the process, but it's some kind of dip, right?)?
Would powder coating or painting be the better option?
Thanks in advance!
so let's try and break this down.
Are we sure that you have a PGP2k1 or a PGP? Check the bolt, are there ball bearings in it or just a solid bolt?
Do you actually have a RVA? Some of the time, RVAs are aftermarket and not stock. If the back cap on the lower tube does have an allen key screw, then it probably is a RVA and yes, you can adjust it to increase velocity.
You would only need the Sheridan valve tool if you wanted to do work on the valve tool, changing velocity is generally done by swapping out the spring, shimming the spring, or adjusting the RVA (rear velocity adjuster).
You can do hydrographic, but anodizing is not exactly possible. Popular routes for finishing on brass tend to be powdercoating, cerakoting, or some type of plating. The best option, IMO is to either keep the stock coating, or strip off everything so it is bare brass and let it patina on its own.
Here's a link to identify the PGP2k1.
VintageRex.com | PMI - Sheridan PGP 2K1
Hiya, thanks for the advice (esp. on the finishes). Yeah it's definitely a 2K1 - it's got the RVA, ball bearings and fibre optics.
It's not so much a velocity problem I'm having, but a bolt cocking problem.
Luckily, I came across a post a couple of seconds ago when searching that mentioned using a 3/32" allen key to loosen the rear grip frame screw and turning the RVA cap by a half-turn should fix the problem I'm having (hopefully).
Now I just need to find the right allen key... ;)
Thanks for the help! :)
On the PGP2K1, there are 2 screw holes on the RVA. When replacing it, make sure that there is about 2 to 3 millimeters between the RCA and the back of the marker. I am going to put a set screw into the opposite hole so that I cant use it and it will make aligning easier.
You will have to remove the rear grip frame screw completely to unscrew the RVA.
Thanks for all the help guys, got the allen key sorted today - and yep, just needed to re-align the RVA.
Works great now, really surprised by the 12g efficiency!
A couple of questions
Don't worry that efficiency will disappear as soon as you crono it over 240fps, LOL!
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