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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Canuck | Need some KP-2 help
Does anyone have high rez pics of a disassembled KP2? I need to check the integrity of some of the internals. I think I might have destroyed the valve nut by removing it while the stock nut screw was still in.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Canuck |
How hard should it be to screw in the valve retaining nut?
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC |
it shouldn't be too hard at all unless the threads are messed up. will the nut screw in by itself easy? is the "pringle" shaped head on the anchor bolt stud twisted or bent out of shape and in the way of the threads?
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Canuck |
I removed the anchor bolt with the "pringle" shaped head. So there is nothing in the way. I think what happened is when I unscrewed the valve retaining nut the threads got chewed up as I unscrewed. Thats why I tested with an other valve retaining nut to make sure the threads in the body are fine cause they look ok but it won't go in without some str.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC |
sometimes it may take a little pressure to turn because the threads may be dirty. what you don't want, is for it to start very easy than all of a sudden stop and feel tight. if that happens it's usually cross threaded. which is easy to do. to start with, put the nut on the end of the valve tool and put it up to the valve threads and spin the tool backwards. you should feel a click as you turn it. the click you feel means it's lined up correctly and without moving the tool around, turn it the correct direction and it should start without cross threading. incase you don't understand the words above... take a 2 liter bottle and cap and spin the cap backwards on the bottle. you'll feel the click i'm talking about.
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Canuck |
I actually tried that, after the click I would start to screw it in and it kinda gets jammed half way I will make sure there is no dirt on my spare valve nut or in the threading. Thanks.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| It's still Rich's fault |
As stated above either your nut is buggered up or the valve threads are a bit goobed...I have noticed that sometimes when people dig out the old lead seal they muck up a thread or two..easy to do and I have done it a few times myself I can run a tap in the threads for you no charge but you will have to handle the shipping... Let me know if I can help.. Matt MadCustoms |
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NC |
that's a good point that Matt brought up about boogering up the threads getting the lead seal out. i've done it too. Matt, what size tap do you use?
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