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04-09-2008, 01:17 PM
| #1 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Denver
Posts: 2,111
| LB Valve Chamber Plug Background: I have a beater LB (one of MadLarkin's) that I'm looking to "upgrade" to pneumatic assist, and am looking for a way to install the LPR. My original plan was tap the front plug on the chamber for 1/8"NPT, install a straight macro fitting, run macro up the front tube, and then install the LPR where the front tube plug is. That idea was thwarted because that plug is apparently permanently attached to the lower tube. My new plan was to replace the air line with macroline or hardline, and cutting a slot in the side of the lower tube. Finding appropriate 10-32 threaded T-fittings for macroline is proving to be a PITA, and I'd rather do a minimal amount of hacking if possible. I'm now thinking it may be easier to just remove the plug, tap it as planned, and then reinsert it. My question is: Is that plug just soldered in? Can I just apply heat + hammer and knock it out, or is it fastened some other way. There appears to be a spot weld on the bottom of the lower tube, is that something I'll need to deal with? Not exactly sure how I'm going to reinstall it but I'll figure that out when the time comes. |
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04-18-2008, 12:53 AM
| #3 (permalink) |
| MCB Member  Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 169
| I removed a chamber from a dead Blue Streak once just to examine it and compare it to a K series.It leaves a trail of solder as it comes out and the heat required could cause the barrel to separate from the lower tube.I would not reccomend it for a gun you wanted to save. I would make a "extention" plug like the front half of a cartridge valve. an 1/8" hole thru it tapped for 1/8" pipe on one end and tapped blind hole for the front gripframe screw. First you would have to remove the insert nut, then solder the "extention" plug in front of the old plug then use it to pilot a long 1/8" drill into the chamber.The valve spring pilot washer will also need a small hole in the center of it. But if you put the reg up front then you have to run the LP hose around the pump handle. you could drill out the 10x32 side port (use a drill press for this) and tap it for 1/8" pipe and use a pipe "T" to side mount the LP reg then run macro line or hard line back to the ASA. PPS has the "T"'s: 1/8 NPT Female x Male x Female Tee [FITT009] - $4.50 : Palmers Pursuit Shop!, Where Custom Still Means Something Like this but use a "T" where the elbow is : 
__________________ Things on my WTB list are: Autococker threaded Nelson body Aerostar Assassinator pump handle or whole gun/kit Assault Line "L" stock for Nelson or sheridan P series. Send me a PM if you have any of these to sell. My feedback Last edited by Smiley; 04-18-2008 at 04:57 AM. Reason: added link |
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04-18-2008, 02:04 PM
| #4 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Denver
Posts: 2,111
| Hrm...I was hoping not to have to do that, but I forgot to figure on melting the barrel off the bottom tube if I try to remove the plug. I guess I'll have to go with the cobble-slotted idea instead. No need to retap anything, I'll just pick up a couple 10-32 fittings, 10-32 to macro connectors, that should work. The slot in the body shouldn't be too hard, as long as I can make it not look like a 12 year old with a dremel did it. I suppose that'll make it easier to convert back to straight pump as well, since I won't have to plug any valve holes, just unhook macro and replace the original front cap on the lower tube. 10-32 to 1/4 slip fit tube [FITT100] - $4.00 : Palmers Pursuit Shop!, Where Custom Still Means Something 10-32 UEF High Flow Elbow [PNEU008] - $3.50 : Palmers Pursuit Shop!, Where Custom Still Means Something 10-32 UEF High Flow Tee [PNEU011] - $4.00 : Palmers Pursuit Shop!, Where Custom Still Means Something |
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