How is this for stupid - Page 3

G0ofy · 05-05-2008, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uranus

small hacksaw

Great minds think alike... ha ha you beat me to it

Uranus · 05-05-2008, 02:23 AM

If I remove the set screw for the valve will the valve move forward a little?

G0ofy · 05-05-2008, 02:26 AM

hmmm im not sure about that... but i have my kp already partially dissassembled so i can try. how far forward do you need?

G0ofy · 05-05-2008, 02:32 AM

um looks like a no go on my valve going forward... i tried pushing it with my valve tool but it didnt want to go anywhere

Smiley · 05-05-2008, 03:43 AM

Since your bolt does not have the shoulder on the front part, tap out the roll pin holding the steel rear section in .Then remove the rear of the bolt and push the front in and turn to get the pin in the access slot.

A hacksaw would ruin the body and the spring loaded pin would probably just spin in the bolt. Remember the Master locks with a round tube over the exposed shackle ? spins to resist hacksawing.

Uranus · 05-05-2008, 04:05 AM

I had just tried that about an hour ago, but bolt is not aligned the same as a Kp bolt, so removing the back part and pushing it in makes the hammer hit the valve. I still need about an 1" 1/2 to get the pin to the turnout point.

I'm thinking about using a dremel on the hammer to notch a gap for the pin to pass.

Thanks,
Chris

Smiley · 05-05-2008, 05:08 AM

Ok, the pin is between the rings on the hammer.
I took a BS lower tube with the valve,hammer and mounting nut still in place and fully depressed the valve.Allowing the front ring on the hammer to just clear the access notch.LB bolt on top.

chplnstone · 05-05-2008, 07:55 AM

from the picture it looks like you have access to the bb mechanism roll pin retainer...driving it out should allow you to remove the steel from the rear of the bolt and then be able to slide the remains of the bolt further into the barrel...hopefully far enough to get the lug back into a normal position for removal (may have to push on the hammer to push in the cupseal a bit?)...the set screw he mentioned is the grub screw under the valve from drilling out the vent hole into the barrel, removing it in this case won't help, sorry...

edit: looks like y'all beat me to it, do we all think the same way?...

collectorandtrader · 05-05-2008, 09:43 AM

I know this mite seem like a stupid question but does the bolt have any orings on it? are any visible? if you can get a razor blade cut the rings and pull them out with pliers, maybe alittle more play with the ID will give you more options...........Destroy the cheapest things first and then work your way up! good luck
-RALPH

c6quad · 05-05-2008, 03:18 PM

this probably won't work but it's another thought...

since the pin is caught between the two rings on the hammer(i'm assuming) why don't you try to drill a hole in the hammer between the two rings so you can then insert a punch to push the pin in to remove the bolt. the only reason this would not work is that the hammer may be hardened and make drilling impossible.

05-05-2008, 03:43 AM	#25 (permalink)
Smiley MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 158	Since your bolt does not have the shoulder on the front part, tap out the roll pin holding the steel rear section in .Then remove the rear of the bolt and push the front in and turn to get the pin in the access slot. A hacksaw would ruin the body and the spring loaded pin would probably just spin in the bolt. Remember the Master locks with a round tube over the exposed shackle ? spins to resist hacksawing. __________________ Things on my WTB list are: Autococker threaded Nelson body Aerostar Assassinator pump handle or whole gun/kit Assault Line "L" stock for Nelson or sheridan P series. Send me a PM if you have any of these to sell. My feedback

05-05-2008, 05:08 AM	#27 (permalink)
Smiley MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 158	Ok, the pin is between the rings on the hammer. I took a BS lower tube with the valve,hammer and mounting nut still in place and fully depressed the valve.Allowing the front ring on the hammer to just clear the access notch.LB bolt on top. __________________ Things on my WTB list are: Autococker threaded Nelson body Aerostar Assassinator pump handle or whole gun/kit Assault Line "L" stock for Nelson or sheridan P series. Send me a PM if you have any of these to sell. My feedback

05-05-2008, 07:55 AM	#28 (permalink)
chplnstone bringing back the dead Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: pensacola, florida Posts: 866	from the picture it looks like you have access to the bb mechanism roll pin retainer...driving it out should allow you to remove the steel from the rear of the bolt and then be able to slide the remains of the bolt further into the barrel...hopefully far enough to get the lug back into a normal position for removal (may have to push on the hammer to push in the cupseal a bit?)...the set screw he mentioned is the grub screw under the valve from drilling out the vent hole into the barrel, removing it in this case won't help, sorry... edit: looks like y'all beat me to it, do we all think the same way?... __________________ happy with me? http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html sales thread: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/r...new-brass.html myspace: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...ndid=106059990 chivalry isn't dead, just taking a long dirt nap... home from california and tired as all get out...

05-05-2008, 09:43 AM	#29 (permalink)
collectorandtrader Maj. Gen. Gun Whore Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 338	I know this mite seem like a stupid question but does the bolt have any orings on it? are any visible? if you can get a razor blade cut the rings and pull them out with pliers, maybe alittle more play with the ID will give you more options...........Destroy the cheapest things first and then work your way up! good luck -RALPH __________________ Major General Gun Whore at your service. Never Under Estimate The Caliber Of My Gun Whoriness Whoring Classic Paintball Equipment Since 1991

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