Paintball

[collectorandtrader]

You could dremel out the pin on the bolt, or notch it so you can apply force upward to release it............
-RALPH

[Morfesto]

Notching it so you can lift it with a dental pic sounds like a good idea.

That or drill through the top of the body into the barrel so you can release the pin and the hole in the top of the body shouldn't affect its operation.

[collectorandtrader]

Originally Posted by Morfesto

Notching it so you can lift it with a dental pic sounds like a good idea.

dental pick mite not be able to take the pressure to lift the rod......I know ive stabbed myself numerious times trying that before, nothing says " that was a stupid Idea" more than fish hooking yourself with a dental pic
-RALPH

[chplnstone]

or drill out the core of the bolt from behind, just drilling a little further would go straight into the cocking jug's spring assembly...then replace the front of the bolt with a delrin slug...

[Stuffy]

Send me a pm if you need a new bolt I have a stock kp2 bolt lying around here taking up some space, just pay postage...

[c6quad]

Originally Posted by chplnstone

or drill out the core of the bolt from behind, just drilling a little further would go straight into the cocking jug's spring assembly....

i thought about this as well. it would be easy to find another bolt too.

[chefboi17]

ok, i was thinking about this for a while, what if you were able to make another notch (like the front notch to twist the lug in order to remove it) a little further back on the reciever, my old sheridan had a setup like that. maybe if you put it only in the bottom tube, you could stick something in there to press up on the lug. after you get it out, you can probably get someone with a mill to clean the slot up to look like the front one

*edit
basically add one of these to the back end of the slot

[Smiley]

The hammer is tool steel, hard to drill on a good day and while in the lower tube you would likely damage the brass when the drill bit walks against the hard tool steel with no center punch mark.

KP2 body $200 -$300 in good condition, a lot less if mangled.
LB bolt $10 to $20 used
Cut the cheapest part first.

Drill the bolt from the back.
If the ball bearings are not out use a 3/16" drill bit, anything larger will force the balls outward denting the barrel from the inside out.

If you removed the balls when you took off the back of the bolt use a 1/4" drill bit and then if you can't get it out use a 5/16" bit.

Unless you have to use a bit larger than 1/4" the bolt can be converted to a solid lug and used in a gun with a quick strip notch.

[chefboi17]

i was thinking you would need to push the hammer and bolt as far forward as possible, then use a dremel tool, with say a 1/8th round or cylindrical cutting tool to free up enough room to get a dental pick or something in there, then once all the internals are out, use a mill to replicate the front cutout.
if he can manage to drill out the bolt, kudos to him, i'm just throwing idea's out there

[Talfuchre]

For that matter - why not drill out the aluminum bolt from the back until he reaches the portion where the push pin is. I would destroy that bolt before messing up the body.

EDIT: Smiley beat me to it.

TF