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| Rec Poster Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Chile, Sth America | Hi all, I'm waiting for my PGP to arrive (burscott shipped it 10 days ago) and I was wondering what you suggest to improve air efficiency (much as I'd love to Palmerize, it's a bit of a long way Things I've read:
Also wondering about valve tool dimensions (I'll have to make my own): What's the side of the square and What's the pitch and size of the threaded part? EDIT: Found this thread which answers the question ( use the effing search button, young padawan And about rollout management: Wire detent ring vs "homemade wedgits/detents" vs nail varnish? I've tried to find solid resources but PGPOG seems dead/inactive, and most other guys simply swear by PPS "palmerizing" their marker, although I'm not sure what it implies. (I'd love a Pug Other suggestions I've found/got, as follows:
Cheers, PDJ Last edited by PDJ; 07-03-2008 at 09:06 PM.. Reason: spellcheck, added link to answer self |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Active Member | You've got most of the efficiency stuff covered. The thing about modding the bolt is pretty much putting a little nub on the face of it. The way the PGP loads balls leaves the ball sitting right above the air hole, and putting a nub on the face of the bolt will push the ball forward just enough so the air comes in behind the ball rather than below it. You can also enlarge that hole a bit for better air flow, though that involves separating the tubes and re-soldering them. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Chile, Sth America | Thanks for the help. I may be covering the theory, but I'm not sure about the putting into practice... (Please note that the nearest Palmers is about 5600 miles as the crow flies if I goof.) Any mods/tuning done is going to be of the home made/almost ghetto kind, so any specific comments/suggestions/"don't-make-the-same-goof-I-did"s will really help. Any help on the valve tool dimensions/specs? Cheers, PDJ Last edited by PDJ; 07-02-2008 at 03:08 AM.. Reason: unclear phrasing |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Chile, Sth America | Sorry, also any feedback on lightening the hammer? The places I found the info (stockclasspaintball IIRC) explicitly suggest getting it done by a pro... I'm quite capable with my hands, and pretty good at building stuff and eyeballing unknown bits of machinery, but I'd far rather find tried and tested procedures by experienced people rather than pipedream (even brass pipe dreams |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Canuck | I think the hammers are hardened steel ... you might have a hard time trying to lighten them. I would just order a new valve spring and a dyna valve and get a read velocity adjuster.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Canuck | I don't know if that will have enuff mass unless its hardened steel with a sleeve of delrin.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Nov 2007 | I'm glad I found this thread, I'll definitely be referring to it as I bring my new lil' buddy back into tiptop shape! Just curious, but would leaving the bolt-retention ballbearings/spring cause any problem? So far the only effect it's seemed to have is to lighten the pump stroke considerably. Well it might conceivably allow double feeding, but that just means I'd have to pay a little more attention to it. |
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