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Old 11-05-2006, 02:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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PMI-II LB help

Hi

I just got this beaut in a trade. The previous owner says it was a PMI-II LB that went to either PPS or Mad Customs for custom work. I know that the nickel plating, barrel shortening, and possibly the sight cut in the feed tube, lightened trigger and quick remove bolt is custom. There is the number "25" inscribed on the top of the gun. I'm pretty sure this is from the custom work. Its serial number is I106885.

Pics can be found HERE

The previous owner says that there is an allen screw adjustment in the back of the gun, however, I have yet to find it and he no longer responds to my messages. Anyone know how to adjust the velocity?

Also, I'm thinking of making it stock class with a vertical 12g changer foregrip. If I turn the tube that supplies the valve with gas forwards I think I can drill and tap it there then run a handle out the bottom of the tube. Will this work or is there something infront of the valve in the bottom tube?

Thanks in advance for your responses.
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Old 11-05-2006, 03:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If there's an Allen screw adjuster, look either around the rear ASA or inside the rear ASA. Looking at your pictures I would bet that there's two holes in the ASA - one for the gas to go through and one for the velocity adjustment.

The bottom tube has the hammer and valve train in it. I think what you're wanting to do would be do-able, but I would suggest if you're going to do that, get another Sheridan gun instead of the nickeled one, just in case it doesn't work.
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Old 11-05-2006, 03:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The in ASA RVA is usually accessed from the outside and is at an angle. Look at the picture below (click to enlarge).

I don't see anything like this in your pictures though. Did you examine the hammer for that type of velocity adjuster? If it is an adjustable hammer, you should see an allen screw in the hammer through the slot in the lower tube when the hammer is forward.

FYI, when you start cutting and drilling nickel plated brass you run the risk of flaking and chiping the plating. That risk aside, most people like to side tap in the same place as the current air inlet for the harline, or you could plug that hole and move your tap 90 degrees so it comes directly out the bottom. You may need to solder in the fitting to make it secure enough for a 12 gram changer. I've never attempted anyting likethat myself, but that is how I would approach it.
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I looked at both your RVA suggestions annd can't find them anywhere. Looking at the hammer and ASA dissasembled off the gun, I can't see any part of them that could move to strengthen the spring. Is there any other way to adjust the gun that has nothing to do with the hammer spring? Like a Tippmann FVA-style thing possibly?
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The only other velocity adjustment available on a sheridan besides the spring tension type is a restrictor in the bolt. Some LBs came with adjustable bolts from the factory. Pull out the bolt and look down the front for an ajuster screw. It will be inside the gas outlet if your bolt is so equiped.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hrmm, I guess it has no velocity adjustment. Maybe a few owners back, someone mixed parts of PMI-II's together and ended up with an adjustmentless marker. Thanks for your help with it.

Anyone know who did the custom work? Is it posible to get wedgits installed? For that nail polish trick, do you let the polish dry before the next coat? Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The number etched on top does not look like Palmer work, they usually use a stamp.

The ball detent is a Typhoon type, but could have been installed by any competent airsmith. The same with the quickstrip slot.

The bolt is a stock Speed Demon bolt, nothing special.

It's hard to say about any of the internal work, without seeing it in pieces....



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Old 11-05-2006, 09:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It is entirely possible there never was any means of velocity adjustment. Early LBs had none from the factory untill they started using the adjustable bolts at some point. It is very hard to even guess who did the custom work without seeing the marker in person, and even then it would probably be impossible to makeany determination. The number etched on the top makes me think it was once a rental, I don't know why an airsmith would do that. PPS does use a stamp but does not usually number Sheridans that come in for basic mods. The visible changes could have been done by anyone. Is the inside of the barrel plated? If it is you can usually use that to rule out PPS.

I'm not a master of the nailpolish mod, but I would add some, let it dry and then test with some paint. If it doesn't work well, I would then add more. I've only ever done this with a Sterling barrel and really didn't have a great result. You would need to contact PPS about wedgits if you want to go that route.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can get you pics of everything but the valve, as I don't have a valve tool. Once I get my hands on a mill, I'll make one though. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of a PPS tuned PGP and stock PGP. The PPS one is on the left. Remove the grip frame and see what it looks like. This is typical of the PPS valve work, my MadCustoms PGP doesn't look like that.

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