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splattttttt 04-29-2009 07:26 AM

KP brass performance accessories
 
I should have asked in the "experts section", but since this is a Sheridan specific forum, and most all of the Sheridan toting aficionados are all here, I figure asking here is also good.

Questions... Will a solid brass hammer add any performance gains compared to the steel hammer?
I know brass is heavier than steel, and compensating for the added weight by using a different spring set, could help with efficiency. No?

Second... Having an all brass bolt should help smoothen the action by reducing friction? The ports would also be allot smoother, thus helping increase flow characteristic?
Inlet port could be made with a slight angle for better transition as well.

Then other parts like an all brass trigger guard, plus tube end caps, maybe pump rods might help increase the overall bling factor?

Any interest in parts like these?
And is it worth the expense and effort for a what ever slight, if any performance gain there might be?

This I ask because our friend Redneck sniper may decide to give a try at making them for me. But I wanted to check with the rest of you also.

Any opinions, advice and interest is greatly appreciated folks, so please chime in.
Jack

Fluff 04-29-2009 09:03 AM

the problem with a brass hammer is it will become peened over from repeated poundings. you could use a denser steel for more weight or titanium, but i think brass would fare poorly. ditto on the cocking rod, as far as the rest, i do not see any reason why not.

WilD 04-29-2009 02:23 PM

You could make a hammer with a steel face, likr the Phat hammers ShockTech sells for cockers. However, a drastic change in hammer mass will probably necessitate spring changes as well and I doubt the market would be very large for such an item. It is likely only serious tuners/tinkers would want to try it out.

I doubt a brass bolt would do much to reduce friction as it would typically be riding on rubber o-rings. Metal on metal friction is probably best to be avoided if possible. I realize there is a lot of rubbing on Sheridan bolts but I don't know how much difference a material change would really be. Might be nice for bling factor though.

I'll say this, I doubt I would buy such items if they were available. Some people are far more devoted to brass than I am though, so there might be a market.

Funwitagun69 04-29-2009 02:31 PM

I was jsut about to mention the Phat ammers.

If you can get a nice improvement in effeciencey, i might be interested in one. I jsut got my 1st KP, but missed the mail so i need t pick it up...

BretG 04-29-2009 02:42 PM

I think Fluff hit the poppet valve on the head. Brass is too soft for the hammer. Not only is the face going to hit and deform, the trigger sears will wear the brass rapidly. The additional weight of a brass hammer will also slow down the hammer, but it will impact with more inertia. Lighter hammer is better in this application.
As to having an all brass bolt, all it will do is add a lot of extra weight.

splattttttt 04-29-2009 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BretG (Post 806670)
Lighter hammer is better in this application..

Not so much the statement, rather than the concept of this does leave me a bit confounded. Please add a few more specifics on this. I thought it was the other way around.

BretG 04-30-2009 08:26 PM

A heavier brass hammer would not increase the efficiency. It would increase the dwell time of the open poppet and waste co2. Hammer lightening can be a significant componant of efficiency tuning.

aaronlecain 04-30-2009 08:36 PM

I could be wrong but isn't it better to have two different types of metal (hardness) so "IF" they rust / oxidize they won't fuze together? could be a storage issue.

skipjack289 04-30-2009 08:37 PM

With the light hammer, would you use a light hammer spring and a heavy valve spring,to shorted the dwell even more?

BretG 04-30-2009 08:43 PM

Ok, don't tell anyone, but the true Elf magic is to use the lightest possible punch against the poppet valve with the maximum amount of gas flow through the valve. If your Sheridan valve goes CLUNK, it is hitting too hard. It should go 'shappoing' with a very minor vibrato in Fsharp.


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